General remarks
Restaurants manifest the spirit of capitalist multiculturalism. Entrepreneurship, international trade and migration, and cultural exchange all come together in these communal eateries.
In the last fifteen or so years, the Washington D.C. area has become a leader in ethnic restaurants. We lag behind New York City and Los Angeles, but we vie with Chicago and the Bay Area for third place in the United States. In some areas, such as Ethi opian cuisine, we are number one.
This guide is intended to help individuals enjoy good food, and keep my favorite places in business. Effective consumer choice improves your eating and, in the long run, improves the quality of available restaurants.
The better ethnic restaurants tend to have many of their kind in a given geographic area. Single restaurant representations of a cuisine tend to disappoint. Competition increases quality and lowers prices. The presence of many restaurants of a kind in an area creates a pool of educated consumers, trained workers and che fs, and ingredient supplies - all manifestations of increasing returns to scale.
Many of the best ethnic restaurants on this list come from the well-represented cuisines. This region is particularly strong in Persian, Salvadorean, Peruvian, Bolivian, Afghan, Ethiopian, Korean, Vietnamese, Indian, and West African cuisines.
The best ethnic restaurants are often found in suburban strip malls, where rents are lower and the degree of feasible experimentation is greater. Small and cheap ethnic restaurants are often better than large ones. Northern Virginia and Maryland are underrated; Adams-Morgan, although it has many fine places, is by no means the fount of ethnic food. West Alexandria, Bailey's Crossroads, and Wheaton are underrated; Georgetown, Old Town Alexandria, and Bethesda are overrated.
After you have chosen a restaurant, you must order. Keep in mind that restaurant staff can be unreliable; sometimes they will steer you towards something safe and uninteresting. (Chinese may still express amazement that many Westerners can eat with chopsticks, for instance.)
Some rules of thumb, none of which are absolute:
Panjshir, 924 Broad Street, Falls Church, 536-4566,
Panjshir II, 224 Maple Ave. West, 281-4183, both closed Sunday lunch.
The premier gourmet Afghan place. The two branches are indistinguishable, as the food is cooked in the same kitchen. The kebabs are good but boring, get the stews, but especially the side dishes. The Kadu, the pumpkin, is a must. One side order serving is usually not enough for two people, so get two. This place offers many wonders. I love the apple, prunes, and walnut combinations. Go, and go often. Saturday lunch is an excellent deal. For dinner for two, order all of the side dishes, plus the Mantu.
Afghan Restaurant, 2700 Jefferson Davis Highway, Alexandria, 548-0022.
Smaller menu, less fine, but more authentic. A bit out of the way for me, but worth having in the repertoire.
See also Paradise Restaurant of Bethesda, under Persian.
The African Room, 3102 Mt. Pleasant St., NW, 202-234-1600, dinner only, and closed Mondays.
They serve dishes from various
parts of Africa. I have never been. Most African places I have listed under
their respective countries, such as Ethiopia, Ghana, Senegal, and Nigeria.
Morton's, 8075 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, 883-0800, look for Tiffany's and Chili's, park, and walk to the west side of the mall.
A dominant restaurant. Affordable at lunchtime, and makes a great buy. It's hard to find better beef than this. High quality on all fronts. The chopped sirloin for lunch is an amazing bargain - a great hamburger for $8.95. Dinner looks very expensive, but since the steaks feed at least two people, just order one. There is also a branch in Georgetown. At either branch, beware the cigar smokers.
Bailiwick Inn, Fairfax, 4023 Chain Bridge Rd., 691-2266, very odd hours, reservations mandatory.
Believe it or not, Fairfax actually has a first-rate American restaurant. Most people don't even know it is there. Expensive, but no rip-off.
Clyde's, Reston Town Center, plus branches near Tysons, in Georgetown, and in Chevy Chase.
When dining with the wimpy, I go to the Tysons one, which is across from Borders, back behind Rt.7 a bit and not visible from the road. The bar scene here is unattractive, but the food is pretty good, reliable, and not overpriced. Comes in handy.
Gabriel's, Radisson Barcelo Hotel, 2121 P St., NW, 202-956-6690.
As much Nouvelle Latin as American, so I wasn't sure how I should classify it. Not cheap, but original and tasty. I recommend the appetizers here, as well as the Sunday brunch.
Old Hickory Grille, 7263-G Arlington Blvd., Loehmann's Plaza, Falls Church, 207-8650.
From the outside this looks like typical boring American food, but in fact the place is special. Their side dishes are excellent, from the french fries to the grits to the mashed potatoes. Above average barbecue. The pecan-crusted catfish is worth orde ring, as is the steak in poblanos. Try this place out while it remains undiscovered. The main place in Burtonsville, MD is packed, this one has just opened.
For American, see also
Fine Dining, Barbecue, Fish, Southern, Cajun, and Southwest.
La Copa, next to the Caribbean Grill, which is 5183 Lee Highway, Arlington.
Generic Latin, but more Argentinean than anything else. Good meats, and has some dishes not available elsewhere in the area. High marks for atmosphere, and a worthy addition to the repertoire. Some Bolivian and Peruvian items as well.
Las Pampas, M St. in Georgetown.
More upscale than La
Copa, pretty good, but not up to B.A. standards either.
Oodles of Noodles, 20th, just north of K St., NW.
A high-quality Asian place
which mixes cuisines, with an emphasis on noodles. I've yet to go.
Cafe Monti , 3250 Duke St., Alexandria, 370-3632. Closed Sunday, no reservations. Open for lunch (though not Saturday), and for dinner at 5.
Run by an Austrian, so they have some posters of the Alps. Exactly the sort of place you don't expect to find in northern Virginia. Real Wiener Schnitzel, for one thing. And excellent pasta with first-rate ingredients. The food has a strongly European feel, yet the place looks like a bit of a dive. A unique combination, which is highly recommended. Hard to explain if you haven't been. And by the way, please note the multiple signs telling you not to change tables once you have ordered!
Azerbaijan Kitchen, 2132 Wisconsin Ave., NW, 202-337-1111, usually open.
A good restaurant, but the cuisine is indistinguishable from Persian so there is no particular reason to make the trip, given the local alternatives.
Red, Hot, and Blue, 1600 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, 276-7427, several other branches mostly not near here, usually open.
Good barbecue food. I favor the pulled pork sandwich, a side order of fries, and the potato salad. And I don't usually like potato salad. A Virginia institution. Good atmosphere, also. My only complaint is the cold in the wintertime, with all the peopl e coming in and out of the door.
Levi's, 1233 Brentwood Rd., NE, 202-635-3991. Also on 6039 Dix St., NE, 202-396-0999.
This is heralded as barbecue "North Carolina style," whatever that is. I haven't been yet. Phyllis Richman says to go early in the day, before the freshness is lost.
Rocklands, 2418 Wisconsin Ave., NW, plus a branch in Arlington, on Fairfax Drive, not far from the Law School, 202-333-2558 for the DC branch.
Very good barbecue, with interesting side dishes. Worth a visit, doesn't have to be the heavy, drippy experience that barbecue opponents dread.
Cecilia's, 2619 Columbia Pike, Arlington, 685-0790, usually open.
The main Bolivian place in the area, and a center for Bolivian social life. Excellent food, I really like the Pork Fricasee. The menu is not purely Bolivian (Mexican specialties are offered), but you should probably order Bolivian, even though everything looks good. Music and dancing at night on weekends.
The key to Andean restaurants in the U.S. is to avoid ordering a plain piece of meat; the quality of the meat will not be bad, but it will not be high enough to justify your choice. Look instead for sauces, stews, soups, and concoctions. Or a piece of meat with lots piled on top of it.
Don Arturo's Restaurant, 2716 N. Washington Blvd., Arlington, 276-1050.
One of the ultimate mom n' pops. Everything I have had here is excellent. At first you will think the restaurant is empty but then you will observe many plates of food being brought to the back room. I am fond of the silpancho here, (chilies and tomatoes and onion piled on meat, on top of a bed of potatoes) but I have not yet had a chance to work through their menu.
Rinconcito Boliviano, Randolph Hill Center, 4824 Boiling Brook parkway, Rockville, 301-881-0332.
More mom and pop stuff. Live music on Sundays. You get to Boiling Brook by turning right on Nicholson, off of Wisconsin. I wish this place were next door to me.
The Grill from Ipanema, they just changed the name, though, and redid the decor, 1858 Columbia Road, NW, 202-986-0757.
For my tastes, Brazil is one of the two or three best food countries in the world, so comparisons are tough. But this is good enough to enjoy. Get the Feijoada, a stewed mix of black beans, meats, sausage, collard greens, and the powdery farina. Make sure you add in the orange slices. A treat. Some of the other dishes are mediocre. This place stands or dies on its Feijoada. It stands.
Amazonia Grill, 4615 Wisconsin Ave., 202-537-0421, way up on Wisconsin.
An inconsistent menu, but their Feijoada beats that at the Grill. Brazilians seem to like this place, and I can see why. Worth having in the repertoire.
Coco Loco, 810 Seventh St., NW, 202-289-2926.
An attempt to recreate a Brazilian churrasqueria in Washington. You pay one price, and they bring various grilled meats to your table until you plead for mercy.
The originals in Brazil are among the world's best restaurants, and I don't say that lightly. The grilled meats here simply can't compare. (I thought the sausage and the filet mignon were the best, however; save up for those.) That being said, the food here is still pretty tasty. And the salad bar has many delicious items and goes far beyond the usual salad bar concept. You can make a meal of that alone. For those who haven't experienced the concept of a churrasqueria, this is a must, but do consider t he following: multiply the price by about twenty, and you've got yourself a round-trip plane ticket to Sao Paulo. Even better, multiply by ten and buy a one-way.
This trendy place draws a chic crowd. They also have Mexican tapas, and some of those are quite good.
Malibu Grill, 5715 Columbia Pike, near Rt.7, Falls Church, 379-0587.
A suburban version of Coco Loco. Not quite as good, but much cheaper and somehow more sympathetic. They have feijoada as well, as part of the buffet. Plus the waiting staff is Brazilian. Ultimately the preferable choice, even if some of the meats are n ot quite as good. Lunch is a real bargain here, the whole treatment for about seven dollars.
Cafe Sofia, 2900 Valley Ave., Winchester, 703-667-2950, closed Sunday, Saturday lunch.
Next time I am in Winchester, I'll be sure to go here. Phyllis Richman recommends the palachinka dessert with yogurt and crepes, but was snide about the main dinner items. Mark Crain likes them, however.
Burma Restaurant, 740 6th St., NW, 202-638-1280, located in Chinatown.
I've had better Burmese in other countries (New Zealand and Taiwan), but most people think this is pretty good. You won't regret going, but it is not much of a draw for me. Burmese cuisine, as you would expect, lies somewhere between Indian and Thai. The dishes are all based on good ideas, but I found the execution imperfect. Maybe I should try it again.
The Nuwadee, 724 Third St., NW, 202-842-4467, odd hours, including early breakfast, but no lunch on weekends.
An offshoot of Burma Restaurant, I have not yet been, but surely of some interest.
RT's Restaurant, 3804 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria, 684-6010.
Premier Cajun food. Messy and authentic. I like the peppered shrimp here. But the place has slipped since they opened the branch in Arlington. I have had some great meals here, but beware. The new branch is RT's Seafood Kitchen, 2300 Clarendon Blvd., 841-0100.
Cajun Bangkok, 907 King St., Alexandria, 836-0038.
No, you didn't read the subject heading wrong. This is a real hybrid restaurant. I've yet to try it.
Cambodian
Angkor Wat, 6703 Lowell Ave., McLean, 893-6077.
I love Cambodian food, but the places on the U.S. East coast are not up to my admittedly high standards. OK, but not great. Nothing wrong with it, just not that interesting.
Cafe Atlantico, recently reopened near Chinatown, on 8th St., between D and E, I believe the number is 405; previously the restaurant was in Adams-Morgan. No weekend lunch.
The premier nouvelle Latin and Caribbean restaurant in this area. Eclectic and wide-ranging. The only place in this area where you can get Cuitlacoche, a Mexican corn fungus which is delicious. The Jamaican jerk chicken is good as well, as does the quail and the Brazilian dish. Cafe Atlantico was once well-known for attracting the most beautiful women in Washington, but this is no longer true in the new locale. So far I see no signs of decline, but I am expecting them, given the squareness of the new clientele.
Hibiscus, 3401 K St., NW, hidden somewhere in the armpit of K St., south of Georgetown, 202-965-7170. Whenever I go there they are closed. Dinner only, I believe, and closed Sunday.
A reincarnation of the former Fish Wings and Tings, from Adams-Morgan. That was excellent. Now they have raised the prices, expanded the size of the place, and moved to Georgetown. You tell me what to think. The food is pretty good, but the prices are high and the experience is not very satisfying.
See also Caribbean Grill, listed under Cuban, and look under Haitian as well. There are also some good Caribbean places on 18th St. in Adams-Morgan.
Capricorn Deli, P St., at about 19th or so, slightly west of Dupont Circle.
An excellent lunch place with great empanadas and sandwiches. Very few seats, however, mostly for take out.
Flopper's, 2521 Ennalls Ave., Wheaton, 301-933-8110.
Mostly sandwiches, which are good.
Hard Times Cafe, 1404 King St., Alexandria, 3028 Wilson Blvd, Clarendon, 1117 Nelson St., Rockville, 394 Elden St., Herndon, usually open.
Chili up to five different ways, Texas and Cincinnati style, very tasty and very cheap. Hard to get sick of. A staple.
The Oriental Regency, 8605 Westwood Center Drive, Vienna, 827-9066, usually open, directly across from Shamshiry (see Persian), behind the American Cafe on Rt.7.
A very good Chinese restaurant, best in the area. They also have genuine Chinese items on the menu, like jellyfish. Reasonable prices as well, although the decor and staff are a bit cold. Excellent Peking duck and Szechuan bean curd. Can fill up pretty early on a Friday or Saturday evening, and for good reason.
Peking Gourmet Inn, 6029 Leesburg Pike, Baileys Crossroads, 671-8088.
A hang-out for conservative Republicans, like George Bush and Norman Schwarzkopf. Excellent Peking duck, no advance notice required. The other dishes vary greatly, but if they use lots of garlic, or garlic sprouts, they are probably excellent. I love the Peking Chicken Wings and the leek dumplings. It often pays to go for the fatty and disgusting here, rather than the light and appetizing. Not as consistent as the Oriental Regency, but their best dishes can compete. A valuable asset in an area with few good Chinese restaurants. This is an old-style Chinese restaurant, in the sense that the help is surly and rude. But the food does come in time, which is the important thing.
Fortune, 5900 Leesburg Pike, Baileys Crossraods, 998-8888, and Reston, 1428 North Point Village Center, 318-8898.
The best Dim Sum in Northern Virginia. I've always been there at lunch time, and never had opportunity to sample their main dishes. But I'm sure they are good too.
Lo's, 3075 Nutley St., Pan Am Shopping Center, Fairfax, but very close to Vienna Metro, 280-2897.
Suburban Chinese through and through, and will not satisfy those looking for the real thing. But one of the best of its kind in the area. Maybe the best. Will consistently satisfy. The Bird's Nest is especially good, as is the Lamb of Two Flavors. It's hard to go wrong here.
There are essentially two kinds of good Chinese restaurants - "sauces restaurants," and "ingredients restaurants." This is both.
Peking Eastern House Restaurant, 16041 Frederick Rd., Rockville, 301-527-8558, take 270 North, get off at Exit 8, turn right off the ramp, right at Frederick Rd., it is on your left within a mile, across the street from the cornfield.
A revelation. Food from the Muslim region of China. Bread-based, rather than rice-based. Lamb rather than pork. Green scallions in abundance. You must go on weekends, when the special dishes are available. The lamb on skewers is a must. And the dumplings. Like no other Chinese food available in this area.
Mark's Duck House, 6184-A Arlington Blvd., Willston Center 1, Falls Church, 532-2125. Hard to see from the road, on Rt. 50 just east of Rt.7, north side of the street, look for the CVS. Usually opened.
A real Cantonese restaurant, replete with hanging ducks in the window and everything. Get the crispy pork, and also some variant of the noodles. I love the tofu as well. I am less enamored of the duck and chicken, but this is an excellent restaurant, and very authentic, in the hands of a wise orderer. It's also very cheap, so take advantage of the prices to order many items.
Taipei-Tokyo Cafe, 11510-A Rockville Pike, Rockville, 301-881-8388, near the old Borders locale.
One of the most authentic Chinese places around. Noodles and soups abound. You order, and they bring the food to your table. Not haute cuisine, but very tasty. The accompanying Japanese place, under separate ownership, is also worthwhile. Both are cheap, and both are recommended.
Seven Seas, 1776 E. Jefferson St., Rockville, 301-770-5020, usually open.
Supposed to be good. Ask for the Chinese menu, I have heard.
China Inn, 629-31 H St., NW, 202-842-0910.
Supposed to be the best place
in Chinatown according to many critics, but you take your chances if you
go here. Order strictly Cantonese, and keep your fingers crossed. Can be
superb. I have heard that Mr. Yung's has fallen, although that was once
quite good.
Columbian
El Sombrerito, 8609
Cameron St., Silver Spring, 301-588-2231, usually open.
Hearty food in large portions.
Brasa Roja, Main St., just east of downtown Fairfax, near Roberts Road, in the mall with Total Crafts.
Excellent rotisserie chicken
and steaks, especially for Fairfax. Plus they serve a variety of good Peruvian
dishes.
Cuban
La Cantinita's Havana
Cafe, 3100 Clarendon Blvd., Arlington, 524-3611.
Cannot touch the competition in Miami and New Jersey, but still good enough to enjoy. I prefer the pork dishes, especially the house specialty. Black rice and beans are never bad, either.
Caribbean Grill, 5183 Lee Highway, Arlington, 241-8947, usually open.
Mostly Cuban, also they serve some Jamaican items. The grilled chicken is good, but I'm more inclined to order the beef (Ropa Vieja) or the Pork Fried Pieces (Masas de Puerco). But the key to having a good time here is to neglect the entrees and order as many side dishes as possible. Especially the beans, in their various manifestations. Table space here is limited, but don't let that discourage you. Cheap.
Cuban Cafe, 3821 D. South George Mason Drive, Falls Church, 998-1420.
I haven't ever been, or even
seen it. I wonder if it still exists.
Dominican
Manna, 8640 Flower
Avenue, Takoma Park, 20912, 301-589-9390, usually open.
Go here for mofongos (see
under Puerto Rico for an explanation), fried pork and chicken, cubam sandwhiches,
and cow feet soup. I haven't been here yet, but I have heard good reviews.
Ecuadorean
La Choza Grill, 8558 Lee Highway, Merrifield, 1/2 mile west of Gallows, 560-1192.
One of the better grilled chicken places around. I like the Seco (lamb stew with rice and potatoes) as well. They've added some Mexican dishes to the menu since I have been here last, which is probably a step backwards. But it is still the same owner, and if you live in the immediate area, as I once did, you will find yourself coming back here.
Guayaquil de Mis Amores, 3709 Columbia Pike, a bit west of Glebe, Arlington, 486-7807.
I haven't been here yet,
but the menu looks like the real thing. Peanut soup, for one thing.
Egyptian
Al Omda, 3813-C S. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, 703-820-7864. In the mini-mall near Skyline Drive.
This was undergoing renovation, and was being turned into a bagel shop, albeit one with Egyptian sandwiches. Egyptian food is a bit like Lebanese but offers an entire variety of new options. The previous incarnation was worth trying, but I cannot vouch for the new one. Cheap prices as well.
Pasha Cafe, 3815 Lee Highway, Arlington, 528-2126, usually open.
An excellent restaurant.
Reasonable prices, but also feels like a nice restaurant. I love the appetizers,
the garlicky yogurt sauce, and the lamb, but it's hard to go wrong here.
Some sources list the address as 2109 North Pollard Center, which is the
cross street.
Ethiopian
Meskerem, 2434 18th St., NW, 202-462-4100.
The classic Ethiopian place in the area. A must if you have never been.
Ethiopian foods spreads out a variety of curries on a pancake-like bread called Injera. You then eat it with your fingers. But this is no mere novelty, it is one of the best cuisines in the world. My favorite dish is the Kitfo, raw beef doused with chi lies and a kind of dry cottage cheese. And don't forget the potato salad.
Washington is very strong in the area of Ethiopian food, so most of the places in Adams-Morgan are recommended. The less refined places tend to have spicier food, and I prefer those to Meskerem; you can pretty much pick one randomly. But Meskerem is th e place to start for most people.
Dukem Ethiopian Market, 1114 U St., south side of the street, looks like a Deli or a food mart.
They will serve you food here, if you are willing to sit at a counter or can grab the one available table. Actually much better than Meskerem, more authentic and tastier. Probably the best Ethiopian food I have had in this country (Rome i s still tops, though.) Mama's home cooking. Also get the Foul (pronounced "fool") for breakfast.
Awash, 18th St., a bit south of Meskerem.
Probably the best Ethiopian place in Adams-Morgan right now.
Entotto, Reservoir Road and McArthur or thereabouts, NW, closed Sunday.
The most refined Ethiopian place around, also better than Meskerem. Run by an Ethiopian woman and her French husband, modeled after the place they had in France. Definitely worthwhile, you cannot go wrong here.
Zed's, 3318 M St., NW, 202-333-4710.
One of the better Ethiopian places, although it cannot come close to its previous glory days when it reigned supreme. The dry cottage cheese is worth ordering as a side dish. One of the few good ethnic places to eat in Georgetown.
Skyline Cafe, S. George Mason Drive, in the Mini-Mall with all the other ethnic restaurants, phone 703-820-0240.
They don't make the food
spicy enough here. This is OK, but is not a premiere Ethiopian restaurant.
There is also Adulis, on 2325 S. Eads St., Crystal City,
which is on the same level, more or less. Go if you want to, but don't
render a f inal judgment on Ethiopian food from these places.
Filipino
Little Quiapo, 4807 1 St., Arlington, 528-3194.
Hard to find - there are eight 1 Sts. in Arlington, and this doesn't seem to be on any of them. I once spent an hour looking for this place and finally had to give up. Several months later I found it by accident. It is located in the Forest Mall, where there is an Outback Steakhouse also. Coming from the intersection of 7 and 50, go east on 50, turning left at Park, which is maybe your sixth (?) light. You'll see the mall then.
Filipino food is best enjoyed when served in homes and at weddings. Most Filipino restaurants I have been to (usually in Los Angeles) have been disappointing. Oxtail in peanut sauce can be too fatty and only brings you so far. The lumpia (a bit like sp ring rolls) are often good, but they're not that special either, at least not in America. Milkfish is no treat in my book.
In spite of all that, this place is pretty good. I like the Adobo very much, and the small lumpia. But beware when you order - even dedicated fans of ethnic food will not like much of what is on the menu. Strong fish sauce - not the sweetened Vietnames e version - abounds. High marks for atmosphere, by the way. And one of the cheapest places on this list.
Aling Pacing, 2311 Price Avenue, Wheaton, 301-933-7070, not always open for lunch on weekdays.
See the remarks above on Filipino food under Little Quiapo. This one looks less appetizing, however, although it is easier to find.
Fine Dining
Go to the Inn at Little Washington, $98 for the fixed price meal if you avoid Saturday's. One of the best restaurants in North America. 703-675-3800, od d hours, and you must dial the area code from Northern Virginia. It's about a seventy minute drive from Falls Church, but a pleasant one. Get the Tuna with Foie Gras on top. Or the Veal with Sweetbreads. Those are the two best entrees.
The best place in town is Lespinasse, on K and 16th, The Carlton Hotel (technically 923 16th St., 202-879-6900), across the street from the Hilton. French with American influences, and an impro vement over the previous incarnation. The best courses are knockouts and the worst are still very good. Perhaps an informed à la carte selection is better than getting the menu. Be prepared to pay lots, though.
After Lespinasse
and the Inn I recommend D.C. Coast (Jeff Tunks's place, 1401
K St., 216-5988, get the chile and crabcake), Citronelle
(Michel Richard's place, 3000 M St., 625-2150), Ruppert's
(10 17 7th St., 783-0699), Gerard's (915 15th St., 737-4445),
Kinkead's
(2000 Penn. Ave., 296-7700, for seafood, entrees about $20) and Morton's
(see American for the latter).
L'Auberge Chez Francoisdoes
not merit any recommendation - an overrated restaurant.
Fish
Crisfield's, 8012 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring, 301-589-1306.
Just off Georgia Ave. Plain fish of high quality. The Art Deco architecture and atmosphere is stunning. Is this 1953 or what? Great clock. Order the Flounder stuffed with crabmeat. Don't expect so much from the salads or soups, however. Not cheap, but a treat. The accompanying visit to Silver Spring is an object lesson in how Maryland and Virginia differ. A great place to bring visitors from out of town who want to see something they will remember.
Legal Sea Foods, Tysons II, Vienna, also at National Airport and K St.
Good pure seafood. Very tasty, and not outrageously priced. Unlike the Boston branch, however, they do take reservations. It's worth booking, because they fill up every night.
French
La Provence, 144 West Maple Avenue, Vienna, 242-3777.
The outside looks ghastly, but the food is of surprisingly high quality. The sort of French restaurant that uses a lot of thyme. Better than La Cote d'Or. Not cheap, but it delivers consistently. Some of the fish portions are too small, b ut it's hard to go wrong here.
Le Gaulois, 1106 King St., Alexandria, 739-9494, closed Sunday.
Good classic French food, at reasonable, if not cheap, prices. I always expect this place to be declining, but it never is. Many will find this very satisfying.
Les Halles, 1201 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, 202-347-6848, open 11:30 to midnight, every day.
A very good French steakhouse,
with the onglet as the entree of pride. Not cheap, but a real treat. Also
get the mashed potatoes with gravy, as well as the Creme Brulee for desert.
The best French Fries in town as well. Consistent.
German
There are no German places
in this area worth eating at. Don't even think about it, as they say. But
see Austrian.
Ghanian
Bukom, 2442 18th St., NW, 202-265-4600, closed Sunday lunch.
More generic West African
than Ghanaian, but since Bukom is an area in Accra, the capital of Ghana,
I assume this is a Ghanaian restaurant of sorts. I find the curries here
to be very yummy. Recommended. See also West African.
Greek
Mykonos, 1835 K St., NW, 202-331-0370.
Supposed to be good, but
I've never been.
Guatemalan
Corado's, 3217 Mt. Pleasant St., NW, 202-462-3332.
Yummy food, good atmosphere,
and in DC's most Latin neighborhood. A very good restaurant, with a surprisingly
high quality of beef, given the low prices. Don't let the police sirens
throw you.
Haitian
Villa Lacaye, 3010 Hamilton St., Hyattsville, 301-559-1149, not far from U. Maryland, closed Monday.
The real thing, and very
tasty at reasonable prices. Creole food, rather than the French dishes
served at many top restaurants in or near Port-Au-Prince. I recommend the
legumes, and the fried conch or Haitian Buffalo Wings as an appetizer.
Make sure t hey bring you the tangy red sauce, not the white mayonnaise
sauce. Haitians are among the world's most creative people, and this restaurant
shows that. They sometimes have Haitian music on Friday and Saturday evenings
as well. Highly recommended.
Indian
Bombay Club, 815 Connecticut Ave., NW, Sunday brunch. Gourmet, expensive, the most refined Indian food in the area. Bombay Palace, at 2020 K St., is also quite good, but Bombay Club is number one.
Bombay Curry Company, 3102 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria, 22305, 836-6363.
The food is excellent, the prices are cheap, and the menu is innovative. I like the Kandai Chicken best, and then perhaps the lamb in spinach. But it is hard to go wrong here. Unlike most other Indian restaurants, they offer a unique product. Go, and g o often.
Kebab Masala, 297 S. Dorn St., Alexandria, 751-2500.
Also excellent. Real bargains, and has some dishes that you won't find so often elsewhere in this area, like quail, goat, and haleem (see Pakistani for a description of that, this is really a Pakistani restaurant in many regards). Great Biryanis and breads. The combination plates are never a mistake. I am warned that the lunch buffet is mediocre, however. Not easy to see from the street, but in the mall with the Safeway.
Shirag's, formerly Bobby's, 238 West Broad Street, Falls Church, 237-2288, 8815, on Rt.7, just west of Rt.29.
Hard to believe from the previous name, but this is the best north Indian place around. The lamb is good, especially the lamb biryani. What makes this place so much better, I do not know. But go soon, because I never see many other people in there, and I wonder how long they will last.
Connaught's, University Ave., Fairfax, at Main St., Rt.236.
Good Indian food - this restaurant revolutionized the Fairfax dining scene. The lunch buffets are good, especially if you arrive early. Probably the best place in downtown Fairfax.
Also for Indian, Aarathi in Vienna is decent, it is a cousin restaurant to Aditi in Georgetown. Haandi, in Falls Church, on Rt.7, just east of 66, in the mall with the Giant, is probably better, although a bit more expensive. Cafe Taj, in McLean, on 1379 Beverly Blvd., also merits attention. But I'll take Bombay Club, Bombay Curry Club, Bombay Bistro, Connaught's and Kebab Masala anyday.
Bombay Bistro, 3570 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax, 359-5810, also at 98 W. Montgomery Ave., Rockville, 301-762-8798.
A good restaurant with a wide-ranging menu. The Fairfax branch opened late in 1995, and rivals Connaught's as the best restaurant in Fairfax. They even have several kinds of dosas. The lunch buffets are good and fresh. There is also a mai n branch in Rockville, but I have never been there.
A Taste of the World, 283 Sunset Park Drive, Herndon, 20170, not visible from the street, call for directions, 471-2017.
They have Indian, Thai, and Mexican dishes. Better than it sounds. A kind of home cooking, tastes different than what you get elsewhere, and very good. Worth having in one's repertoire.
Punjab Dhaba, 7263-F Arlington Blvd, Loehmann's Plaza, Falls Church, 698-5262.
My favorite place at the moment, the best tandoori, great breads, and amazing lentil dumplings (weekends only). Great atmosphere also, a treat if there ever was on, and cheaper than average. The special Ut dish is great as well.
Delhi Dhaba, 2424 Wilson Boulevard, 524-0008, usually open.
The food simmers in front of you at the counter, and you order what you want. Weekend buffet. Very quick, very cheap, good atmosphere, good Indian videos and TV programs - this place fills a niche. Not the finest, but I like it.
Tiffin, 1341 University Blvd. East, Langley Park, 301-434-9200.
A non-vegetarian spin-off of Udupi Palace (see below), and just a short bit further down the road, heading away from the Beltway. Very good Indian food, and very authentic as the U.S. goes, these people know what they are doing.
Haandi, 1222 W. Broad St., Falls Church, 533-3501.
High-quality Indian food. They take no reservations, and some times the place does fill up. I like their wok-cooked specialties and their salmon, but I find some of the portions a bit too small and the spicing a bit too weak. Quality is not a problem, however. The food is tasty here.
Polo India Club, 1736 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202-483-8705.
Excellent Indian food. They
have a thick yellow chicken curry, exactly the same as the chicken that
used to be served at Katmandu, the now-defunct Nepalese place. Order that.
Everything else is good too.
South Indian:
Madhu Ban, Washington Blvd., Arlington, usually open.
A good place for Masala Dosas, a South Indian wafer filled with spicy potatoes. Ordering two is not a mistake for the hungry. On weekend mornings, in the summer, they sometimes have lentil dumplings, which are the best dish they serve. They're not real ly dumplings at all, but rather a yogurt concoction with lots of yummy stuff in the mix. If the proprietor is out of them, as he often is, you should resent him. He usually has some lame excuse or another, usually relating to the weather. The vegetable di shes here are generally pretty good, but not as good as at Udupi Palace - see below
Udupi Palace, 1329 University Boulevard East, Langley Park, 301-434-1531.
A great place. Southern Indian food in great profusion. Goes well beyond the usual dosa places. The food is an entire level better, and the selection is far more extensive. A real treat, quite simply. I especially recommend any kind of dosa, the Pesaran, the vegetable dishes, and the curd rice. Especially the curd rice. If I lived next door to this place, I would go three times a week. By the way, the Latino music shop next door has some good stuff that is not available in your local Tower.
Swagat, they just changed the name, though, 2063 E. University Blvd., Hattsville, 301-434-2247. Just a little past Udupi, on the right side of the road, coming from the Beltway, a little hard to spot from the near side of the road but right there in a shopping mall. Buffets at many hours of the day, also.
No meat. Superb for vegetarian dishes, although Udupi has better dosas (the dosas here are nonetheless excellent.) A highly original menu, with high quality food. Great decor (seriously!).
u, 8046 New Hampshire Ave., at University Blvd., Langley Park, MD, 301-434-4202.
Now more popular than Udupi with the Indian crowd, although the menus are almost the same. Slightly better, though, these days.
There is also a new Indian place on Rt.123 in Vienna, across from Outback, it is pretty good, and a new one on Rt. 29 also, a bit east of Rt. 7.
Raaga, 5872 Lessburg Pike, Falls Church, just east of Duangrat's.
Indian food, from the folks who brought you Connaught's in Fairfax. Certainly very good, but lacks special dishes if you know the other places on this list.
Indian-Italian
Mehak, 7716 Lee Highway, Falls Church, VA, 573-8076.
Never on the same plate,
however. A good Indian restaurant, with pasta if your companion doesn't
like curry. Not the area's best, but good enough to enjoy.
Indonesian
Sabang, 2504 Ennalls Ave., Wheaton, MD, 301-942-7859, usually open.
This area has no first rate Indonesian place, but this is pretty good. Mostly I save up my Indonesian urges for when I am in other places. But if you are going to order Indonesian, no matter where you are, go for the Rijstafel (Ricetable), which offers a wide variety of dishes to two or more diners. See also Melati, under Malaysian.
Sarinah Satay House, or something like that. Now in West Alexandria, in the mall on Van Dorn St. which also has Santa Rosa Seafood (see Peruvian).
The same place that once was in Georgetown. The former incarnation was good, not great. Let's hope a move to the more ethnic suburbs helps.
Israeli
Tel-Aviv Cafe, 4867
Cordell Avenue, Bethesda, 301-718-9068, hours not listed. Monday:
11-10, Tues. - Firday 11-1, Saturday 11-1, Sunday 4-10
I haven't been yet. The menu
lists a mix of Mideast specialties and kabobs. Kosher, as well. The prices
are not cheap, but I have the feeling the place offers a reasonable degree
of quality. I've never been to a bad Israeli restaurant.
I Ricchi is very satisfying, but I find Galileo overpriced, inconsistent, and offering poor service. Obelisk is good but a bit boring for my taste. None of them beat what you can eat for $5 in a good Trattoria in Parma or Torino. For suburban areas, I find both Marco Polo and Buonarrati's of Vienna to be satisfying; I like the buffet at the former and the lasagna at the latter. Joe's Pizza and Pasta, scattered branches, is tasty and cheap, go with low expectations, though. See also Cafe Monti, under Austrian, their pasta is first-rate. Off the beaten track, you might want to consider the following:
Savio's, 516 E & F Van Dorn St., 212-9651, slightly funny hours, I think.
This is one of Northern Virginia's premier strip malls for food. Has excellent Thai, Japanese, Peruvian, Italian, and some good ethnic groceries. Just south of Edsall, and a bit north of the Beltway ramps on van Dorn. Despite the competition, Savio's will sometimes win out when I am in this mall.
I like the pastas here, especially the Rigatoni Carbonara, or the ones with spicy sausage. The cook is from Tunisia, and does everything just a bit differently.
That's Amore, 150 Branch Road, Vienna, 281-7777, usually open except for weekend lunch.
If the name doesn't scare
you off, the people walking through the front door will. But this is a
fun place, and the food is not bad. Beware the non-convex set: portions
feed several and cost much, so it is uneconomical to go alone or with a
single companion.
Jamaican
Negril's, 7904 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda, 301-907-6800.
Curried stews, red beans, ox-tail, and rolled breads. Cheap, and very tasty.
Rita's, Georgia Ave., NW, no street number, west side of the road, a few blocks north of Irving, just south of the intersection with Morton. Closed Sunday.
Not for all tastes, but a
real treat in my book. Great goat curry, great atmosphere, very cheap.
The beans are especially good. And they stock lots of grape soda. Try to
park the car right in front of the restaurant where you can watch it, however.
Japanese
Blue Ocean, 9440 Main St., at Pickett Rd., Fairfax, 425-7555.
A new arrival in Fairfax, this place is excellent. Attracts a largely Japanese clientele. More than just the usual teriyaki dishes, also. Worth having in the repertoire.
Matuba, 2915 Columbia Pike, Arlington, 521-2811, also 4918 Cordell Ave., Bethesda, 301-652-7449.
Excellent sushi.
Makoto, 4822 MacArthur Blvd., NW, 202-298-6866, closed Monday.
Ten small courses, $35, only four tables. A gem - one of Washington's best. The closest you will get to real Japanese haute cuisine here.
Tachibana, 6715 Lowell Ave., McLean, 847-1771, there is also a branch in Bethesda. Weekends open until 10:30.
The best Japanese place in the suburbs. Not at all cheap, but the quality justifies the prices. Many entrees are in the $20 range.
Arigato, recently renamed though, 13039 Fair Lakes Shopping Center, Fair Lakes, 449-8404, closed Monday. (Was JR3)
Very stylish and original, the best decor of any place on this list. The cardboard chairs are the best part of it all. Plus the Japanese food is of very high quality. A place that ought not to exist in the suburbs, but does. To get there, take 66 West to #55B, straight off the exit, left at the first light, then a left at the second light, into the big shopping center, look between the Hechinger's and Toys R Us.
Temari, 1043 Rockville Pike, Rockville, 301-340-7720.
Highly authentic, too authentic some would say. Right next to a Japanese store and Japanese supermarket; patronized primarily by Japanese. More a cafe than a restaurant. If pork cutlet doused in ketchup is your thing, this is the place to go. Here you will encounter the other side of Japanese food.
Also see Korean. Many
Korean places in this area serve Japanese food as well.
Jordanian
Petra, 2134 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, 202-337-0222, closed Sunday.
Not many items on the menu, which is usually a good sign. The food is very tasty, and it is just a bit different from other Arabic offerings. Recommended.
When the Koreans say spicy, they mean it, especially with the soups and hot pots. Korean food has an aesthetic which is raw, cold, and bare. I prize it highly. The accompanying vegetables are always excellent. The Kimchee (pickled cabbage with chilies) is an acquired taste, but that taste should definitely be acquired.
Beginners should try the Bul-Gogi. I often order the Korean Pancake. Bibim-Bansang (the spelling or transliteration may vary!) is a combination of rice, vegetables, beef, egg, and spicy brown sauce; it must be mixed together by the patron. A Korean specialty, and one of the treats at any Korean place. The seafood and bean pancakes are usually excellent as well. Korean stews, however, can sometimes be too sharp, too soggy, and too full of bizarre kinds of seafood and tripe. Some are excellent, but you s hould know what you are doing if you order one.
Korean restaurants in this area are remarkably consistent; it is hard to recommend one over the others.
Fuji, 77 N. Glebe Rd., Arlington, 524-3666.
Reliable and tasty. Like many Korean places they also serve Japanese food. The Japanese will tell you it is no good, but they are wrong.
Sam Woo, 1054 Rockville Pike, 301-424-0495.
I've been to dozens of Korean restaurants in my life, and never experienced a bad one. This would be my first choice of the ones I know in Maryland.
Misora, 1315 Old Chain Bridge Rd., McLean, 356-6200.
Another good one.
Woo Lae Oak, 1500 S. Joyce St., Arlington, 521-3706.
Supposed to be one of the best, I have not yet been.
Sun-dal Chung, 6499 Little River Turnpike, Alexandria, a bit west of the 395 ramp, 642-1444.
Number one for atmosphere, and open 24 hours. A gem, if you can spot the sign.
Lotte Plaza, large Korean Mall in Fairfax. On Old Lee Highway, near Fairfax Circle, and next to Artie's.
The center of Korean life
in Fairfax. A large Korean supermarket and a variety of small take-out
Korean restaurants served by tables in a mall-like area. Great food, and
definitely number one for atmosphere. A visit here is a must.
Laotian
Bangkok-Vientiane, 926-A West Broad St., Fall Church, 534-0095, usually open.
Has both Thai and Laotian
food. Laotian food is generally like Thai, but rawer, less refined, and
less sweet. This restaurant is very good, especially if you stick to the
beef items. Very spicy here is no joke. Parts of the lunch buffet can be
grisly, but they will usually have one good item in the buffet as well.
I prefer à la carte in any case
Lebanese
Bacchus, 1827 Jefferson Place, NW, 202-785-0735, closed Sundays. A bit south of Dupont Circle, doesn't open for dinner until 6:00. There is also a branch in Bethesda.
Last time I went here it was a disappointment, so maybe I can't vouch for the place any more. Traditionally it has been the area's ruling Lebanese restaurant. Superb on all counts, especially the appetizers. I also loved the chicken in yogurt sauce with pomegranate seeds. Not cheap, but worth it, at least if my one bad experience was an outlier.
Lebanese Taverna, on Washington St. (Blvd.?), in Arlington, not far from Falls Church.
Very tasty Lebanese food. Draws an older, more traditional sort of Virginia crowd. Don't let them put you off.
Samadi Sweets Cafe, Leesburg Pike, Bailey's Crossroads, same mall with Fortune (see Chinese).
The collection of sweets here is amazing. But don't overlook the food. Best time to go is for Sunday brunch, go before it fills up, a diverse array of Middle Eastern dishes, and many things you won't get anywhere else. Plus reasonably priced. Ignore th e diffident service, getting them to bring you a drink here is an ordeal, but the place is nonetheless worthwhile.
Layalina, 5216 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, 525-1170.
Reasonably good food, but
a bit overpriced to me.
Malaysian
Melati, 3506 Connecticut Ave., NW, 202-537-1432, closed Monday lunch. Indonesian and Malaysian entrees - they have two separate cooks. I haven't been, but neither cuisine is a strength of this area, in general.
Straits of Malaya, 1836 18th St., NW, 202-483-1483, no Sunday lunch.
Looks overpriced to me, so I have never been. I love Malay and Malaysian food, but not in the U.S.
Mandarin Inn, 3045 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria, 548-4052, 836-2300, usually open.
Mostly a Chinese place, but they have some Malay specialties as well. Across the street from Bombay Curry Club. Much more of a Mom and Pop than Straits of Malaya.
I went once, with mixed results.
I had a very good appetizer of chicken wrapped in bean curd, dipped into
a sweet sauce. The Beef Rendang had a good sauce, but the beef itself was
dry and tasteless. I am intrigued enough to go back, but the final verdict is not yet in.
Mexican
Cielito Lindo, 4305 Kenilworth Ave., Bladensburg, 301-699-5787; in the middle of nowhere. Closed Monday, otherwise usually open.
A superior restaurant, and one of the best on this list. The only real Mexican restaurant in the area, given that Enriqueta's has fallen to pieces. A total mom and pop. Ask the proprietor for advice and do what he says. Barring that, dishes with the mo le sauce are excellent (they are available, but not always on the menu). And the roast pork is superb. Best is the item with the marinated pork and the Oaxaca cheese; it is called Alhambre, or something like that. Nothing here is heavy or greasy. The stan dard items, like the burritos, are good here, but it is better to order real Mexican food instead. It can fill up early, however. Excellent on atmosphere.
Blanca's, 418 S. Washington St., Falls Church, Rt.29, 538-2466.
Actually an El Salvadorean restaurant, but they also have excellent Mexican food, the best in the area outside of Cielito Lindo in Bladensburg. Get the bean burrito. Don't go when you are in a hurry, however. Also try Cuscatlan (see Peruvian), or some of the other Latin places. Any of these beat the pathetic American attempts at Mexican food found in this area.
Los Amigos, 1905 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria, 549-7008. Opens for dinner at 6:00.
One of the first Tex-Mex places in this area, but still probably the best (of a weak lot admittedly). Not as popular as it once, but I have noticed no decline in the quality. The Chile Rellenos are pretty good, as are many of the other dishes.
Lauriol Plaza, 1801 18th St., NW, 202-387-0035, closed Mondays.
Good Mexican and Spanish dishes in Adams-Morgan. Not cheap, but demand remains high at the prices they charge.
Parrillada, 10900 Lee Highway, Fairfax, 385-2501.
Food of Southern Mexico,
I have not yet been, recommended by Washingtonian
magazine.
Mongolian
Tony Cheng's Mongolian Restaurant, 619 11 St., NW, 202-842-8669, usually open.
Grill and hot pot. You choose
your own stuff and cook it. Good, and worth doing once, but it does not
attain sufficient heights to bring one back.
Moroccan
Marrakesh, 617 New York Ave., NW, (202) 393-9393
Fixed price meal, with many delicious courses. The lamb in honey with almonds is a favorite, as is the Bistillah (chicken pie with cinnamon and sugar), and chicken with olives. Needn't be done more than once a year, but must be done at least once in your life. Be hungry when you go. And try to avoid the belly dancing, if possible. Excellent decor.
Dar Es Salaam, 3056 M St., NW, 202-342-1925.
This place used to be excellent. Then it closed down for at least two years when the proprietor had an accident. It reopened last year with the same name and location, but new management. Unlike many Moroccan restaurants, you can order à la carte here. The food isn't quite as good as Marrakesh, but the place is more useful in many ways, primarily because of the à la carte option.
A Taste of Casablanca, 3211 N. Washington Blvd., Arlington, 527-7468. Opens for dinner at 5.
Primarily à la carte, very tasty, authentic, and very reasonably priced. The crust on the Bistillah (a pie of chicken, almonds, raisins, cinnamon and sugar) is properly thin. Highly recommended.
u, 4917 Elm St., Bethesda, 301-718-1777.
I've yet to try this place.
u, 1504 King St., Alexandria, 549-6464, closed Sunday, dinner starts at 6:00.
I haven't yet been.
Exotic Marrakesh Casbah, 2309 Calvert St., NW, 202-234-4632.
Seems to be more à
la carte than fixed price Moroccan, but I haven't been yet.
Nicaraguan
Terramar, 7800 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda, 301-654-0888, closed for weekend lunch.
Not the mom and pop restaurant that a Nicaraguan place ought to be. The food here is heavily influenced by Spanish cuisine, and is a bit on the expensive side. Still, they do offer some Nicaraguan entrees, and the meal is enjoyable. But since it is alw ays empty, I assume that my reservations about the place are shared by others.
Latin American Restaurant, in Wheaton, on Ennalls Ave., just down from the big funny clock, not far from Georgia Ave.
The real thing, unlike Terramar.
The Bajo is described on the menu as "an acquired taste." Of course it
should be ordered, even though it does not look nice at all.
Pakistani
Food Factory, 4221 North Fairfax Drive, Arlington, 527-2279, usually open. Turn left at North Stuart, coming from the west on 66, and park in the back. I have also heard they now have a branch in Herndon.
Don't let the name scare you off - this is a real ethnic restaurant, with great atmosphere. The kabobs and the breads are tasty. The chicken, of course, should be ordered on the bone; it is tenderer that way. I prefer the chicken to the lamb. The spicy hamburgers (chapli burgers) are not bad either. The scooped buffet dishes vary in quality, but usually you can tell by sight. Weekends they serve Haleem, a Pakistani speciality. Haleem is a move in the direction of simply ingesting the spices directly an d removing the intermediary of the food. This place has slipped from its former glories (the spinach is not always fresh and the chicken is sometimes overcooked), but it is still worth the trip.
For people-watching Food Factory is first-rate. Go Saturday at lunch time, but there is almost always something interesting going on among the clientele.
Tabeer, 1401 University Boulevard, International Mall, upper level, Langley Park, 301-434-2121.
The menu resembles that of
Food Factory. Whenever I am in the neighborhood, I cannot resist going
to Udupi Palace or Woodlands (see Indian).
Persian
Shamshiry, 8607 Westwood Center Drive, Vienna, VA, 703-448-8883. Off of Route 7, near the Dulles access road. Not visible from any road. Turn left at the American Cafe, and head towards the back. Near Oriental Regency, down a bit from United Airlines.
An excellent Persian place. Kabobs only, which I usually find dry and unexciting, but this place is a winner. Best rice in the area, very fragrant. The Barberry Rice and Cherry Rice, with chicken or beef respectively, are highly worthwhile. The Barberry Rice is wonderfully tangy and sour and the berries are luscious. What kind of rice you order is the real decision here, not what kind of meat. Ask for the beef medium rare, or even rare, if you order meat. Excellent people-watching also, if you are interested in the Persian upper-middle class.
Bread & Kabob, 3407 Payne St., Bailey's Crossroad, just off Rt.7, north side, east of Peking Gourmet Inn, 845-2900, usually open.
My favorite here is the Dizi. Dizi is "traditional Iranian lamb stew with beans, chick-peas, onion, potato, tomato, garlic, dried lime, rolled oat and spices cooked overnight and served in the same pot." One of those meals where the consumer contributes to the production process, using what appear to be instruments of dental torture. The kabobs, while good, do not stand up to the competition elsewhere.
Open Friday and Saturday nights until 5:00 a.m.; they also serve Kalle-Pacheh and Haleem at those times.
Moby Dick House of Kabob, 6854 Old Dominion Road, McLean, VA, 448-8448, also branches in Georgetown (Wisconsin Ave. south of M), Bethesda, and Fairfax (12154 West Ox Road, the mall with Tower Records and the UA theatre, 352-6226).
Excellent kebabs, and highly recommended. The best genuinely ethnic place in McLean and one of the best in Fairfax. The branches are as good as the original.
Duke Kabab, 6301 Little River Turnpike, Suite 140, Alexandria, 256-0009, across from the street from the Alexandria Tower Records.
Above average kebabs. A slight notch below Moby Dick, but close, plus a more Persian atmosphere.
Cafe Rose, 300 W. Broad St., Falls Church, 532-1700, not far from Rt. 29.
Attached to a motel, and very much a mom and pop. They're cooking just for you, and will even give you advice about how to eat it. Very good and a classic Virginia experience. Get the Gourmet Sabzi [Ghorma Sabzi, properly], and ask for the specials.
Pars Famous Kabob and Steak, 10810 Lee Highway, Fairfax, 273-3508.The only Persian place in Fairfax. Mostly kabobs. The lunch buffet is one of the best deals in town, plus they have all sorts of Persian stews then. Otherwise get the lamb, and be sure to ask for onion with your bread.
Aryana Cafe, 2201 Arlington Blvd., Rt. 50 and Pershing, attached to the Day's Inn Motel, 528-3730.
Pretty good kabobs, not up to the very best, but certainly good enough to enjoy.
Paradise Restaurant, 7141 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda, 301-907-7500.
They have Afghan food as
well, but this is the lengthiest Persian menu around, lots of stews and
lots of kabobs. Quite good, and the weekend buffet, while not cheap, puts
out many of the quality items, not just the chaff.
Peruvian
El Majahual Chim-Pun Callao Restaurant, 3815-B S. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, VA, 703-845-9501. Off Rt.7, just east of Skyline Mall, or take the confusing Seminary Road from Alexandria. Open any time you would care to go.
This restaurant's name has something to do with soccer, it seems. Many Peruvian wonders here. Papa Huancaina makes for a nice appetizer - potatoes covered with a spicy cheese sauce. The Ceviche is very good. Among the mains, Seco is lamb stew with beans. Lomo Saltado is the dish I use to gauge any Peruvian restaurant - salty beef, olive oil, tomatoes, and french fries all mixed together. Don't worry, the French Fries are supposed to be soggy. It's best here. The Italian-sounding dishes are less interesting. Same with some of the steaks (see the remarks under "Bolivian" on this point). Go for the dishes which mix ingredients.
The restaurant also serves good El Salvadorean food; I like the Taquito appetizer. Plus the usual E.S. assortments. The mini-mall also deserves a full walk, both front and back sides. This is what Northern Virginia is all about, and what makes living here tolerable. You'll find ethnic groceries for Filipino, Ethiopian, Indian, Afghan, and Vietnamese foods.
Edy's Chicken and Steak, Las Brasas, Leesburg Pike, Bailey's Crossroads, on the north side of Route 7, just east of Chesapeake Plaza, where the old Borders used to be; 820-5509.
In fancy new digs, let's hope quality does not decline. On first visit it has not. Quite simply the best place for rotisserie chicken. I love this place. A clear cut above the competitors, but I'm not the only one who knows that, so it is usually crowded. The new building is nice, though, and the atmosphere therefore has declined. The old Edy's across the street now has a new Peruvian chicken place, I haven't been there yet, nor do I know if it is the same owners.
My second favorite Peruvian chicken place called Pollo Inka is in a Herndon mini-mall. I don't have the address, but it's not hard to find if you keep your eyes open.
Santa Rose Seafood, 516(?) E & F Van Dorn St., usually open, I think. Next to Savio's (see Italian).
The place for ceviche, period. One of the five best restaurants on this list. Ceviche is raw fish, and the Peruvians mix it with coriander, red onions, and a lime marinade. This place also has the area's best scallops. The cooked fish is quite good, but the raw seafood is supreme. I suggest getting the ceviche mixto, and the paella, although you cannot finish both. Pescado Saltado is another treat. An A+ for atmosphere as well, and a good place to bring foreign visitors. They just opened up a branch on 18th St. in Adams Morgan, called Santa Rosa II.
Cuscatlan, Rt.7, Bailey Crossroads area, pretty much across the street from Peking Gourmet Inn.
Has Peruvian, El Salvadorean, and Mexican specialties. Not refined, but I always enjoy it. Small, with an excellent total lack of quality decor. Epitomizes Bailey's Crossroads. Great atmosphere.
La Granja de Oro, 2920 Annandale Rd., Falls Church, 534-5511, 5519.
The place to go for Peruvian mixed grill, including beef heart, tripe, calf liver, etc. The other items are pretty good as well. Not on a major strip, so most people don't know about it. Not so far from either Rt.7 or 236.
By the way, don't ever drink Inka Kola, no matter how many locals you see ordering it. It's like boiled, sweetened, liquefied bubble gum.
Costa Verde, 946 North Jackson St., Arlington, 522-6976, near GMU Metro campus, across from the Merit station, usually open.
Not an above-average Peruvian
place, but they do have some dishes here from the interior (e.g., Arequipa)
that other Peruvian places do not. Not a priority, but going is not a mistake
either.
Puerto Rican
Cancun, 11260 Georgia Ave., Wheaton, 301-949-9838.
Mostly a Mexican and El Salvadorean restaurant, but they serve some Puerto Rican specialties on weekends. Sleeveless shirts are not allowed, that kind of place. Alas, no mofongos, however.
El Encanto Restaurant, 6521 Riggs Road, Hyattsville, MD, 301-559-0200.
House of Mofongos, basically.
I have not yet been, but it is high on my list for future visits. Where
else do you see a menu that has items like "Mofongo Without Pork Skins
and Stewed Cod Fish." See also under Dominican Republic, where mofongos
are served as well.
Romanian
Vagabond, 7315 Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda, 301-654-2575.
I've never been. The place
has never received good reviews, and I wonder if it is even still open.
Russian
Russia House, 790 Station St., Herndon, 787-8880.
I drove to this place once, but it looked boring and overpriced. So, I reoptimized and opted for Peruvian chicken in a nearby strip mall, I think it was called Pollo Inka.
Balalayika, M St., and 33rd (?), Georgetown.
I've never been, although
Phyllis Richman, who is usually reliable, gave it a lukewarm review.
Salvadorean
Atlacatl, 4701 Columbia Pike, Arlington, VA 920-3680, usually open.
Probably the best El Salvadorean in the area. The herb pupusas are especially good. See the general comments under El Zunzal.
El Zunzal, 917 W. Broad St., 532-9372, also 5900 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, 379-5100.
My standard place for El Salvadorean food. There is no doubt what you should order here: two mixed pupusas, one corn tamale, and a side order of beans. The best five dollar meal on this list. A Pupusa, for the uninitiated, is a Salvadorean "pancake," made of corn-based bread, stuffed with meat, cheese, or both. Make sure you put lots of spicy cabbage on the top. Some of the other menu items are good here as well, but I am never really tempted to deviate from the above.
Sarita's, 102 E. Fairfax St., Falls Church, 533-9448.
Authentic, to say the least.
I have not yet been.
South African
South African Cafe, 1817 Columbia Rd., NW, 202-332-0493, closed Monday and weekday lunch, dinner at 6:00.
Offers a variety of curries,
as well as some genuine South African dishes, like bobotie - custard-topped
ground meat with curry spices and dried fruit. Phyllis Richman gives it
a mixed review, but likes the best dishes very much, such as the lamb curry
.
Southern
Georgia Brown's, 950 15th St., NW, 202-393-4499. On the west side of the park, at the place where there appear to be two 15th Sts.
A visit here will almost make you think you that America is an integrated nation. Here is where the black upper and middle class hangs out. Great atmosphere, and some great food. Make sure you get some grits. I've read that the place has slipped lately , but I have had some really excellent meals here, usually at Sunday brunch. Sometimes the music is too loud, however.
Vidalia, 1990 M St., NW, 202-659-1990, closed Sunday.
Nouvelle Southern food, extremely tasty and creative. One meal I had here was superb, and the other was mediocre. You are taking your chances, but with a potentially high payoff. Order the Pecan Pie for dessert. Expensive.
Vantage Point, 1900 N. Fort Myer Drive (Westpark Hotel), Arlington, 527-4814.
The Washingtonian magazine
describes the offerings as "Southern Coastal," and cites crab cakes and
peanut-roasted pork tenderloin.
Southwest
Red Sage, 605 14th St., NW, 202-638-4444.
A famous restaurant. Cost more than $5 million to construct. Spectacular decor. Creative cooking. Attracts the rich and famous. Has gone through too many head chefs. Can be fantastic or terrible, depending upon your luck and your point of view. The exp ected value of trying is positive, however. The bar upstairs serves cheaper snacks, which are actually more consistent and also can be used to create a meal. That's what I usually do.
Santa Fe East, 110 South Pitt St., Alexandria, 548-6900, usually open, Sunday brunch.
A restaurant of high variance. Sometimes truly inspired, sometimes very weak. I like the Chile Rellenos very much. But you're taking a chance, no matter when you go or what you get. Plus the head chef just left, so this is really a gamble.
Anita's, several branches, including two on Rt. 123 in Vienna, the northernmost is always open.
Once an excellent restaurant,
now merely a good restaurant, sometimes a mediocre one. An attempt to mimic
the food from New Mexico. Go spicy here, if you can. I like the Mr. T's
special, spicy pork with potatoes. Quick, convenient, and sometimes hits
the spot. The breakfast specials look intriguing, but I have never tried
them.
Spanish
Taberna del Alabardero, 1776 I St., entrance on 18th St., 202-429-2200, opens at 6:00.
One of the five best restaurants in Washington. Extremely good, the paella compares favorably to that of Valencia. They often have regional specialties cooked by visiting chefs. A superior dining experience. Not cheap, but the price is high for a good reason.
Jaleo, 480 7th St., NW, 202-628-7949.
Near the SEC, very trendy.
Spanish tapas, some of which are extremely innovative. Slightly past its
peak, but still a worthy part of the repertoire.
Taiwanese
See Chinese.
Duangrat's, 5878 Leesburg Pike, Bailey's Crossroads, 820-5775, usually open.
Gourmet Thai at reasonable prices. The ruling Thai restaurant in this area. There is another branch of the same restaurant, with a slightly different menu, right next door, called Rabieng's. Has more modern decor than Duangrat's, but fewer offerings, although I am told you can still order off the Duangrat's menu.
Pilin, 116 West Broad St., Falls Church, 241-5850.
On Rt.7, a tiny bit west of Rt. 29. One of the best Thai places in the area, maybe the best. No surprises, but it totally delivers. Better than Tara Thai on Maple Ave. in Vienna. In any Thai place I recommend the Mee Grob.
There is a separate branch of this restaurant in the mall on Rt. 7 where Tower Records is located. The other branch is more of a lunch place, and not as good as Pilin, but it is certainly good enough to go to and enjoy. Cheaper and quicker as well. The place also has some Vietnamese specialties, which are good as well.
Dusit, 2404 University Boulevard West, Wheaton, 301-949-4140.
Wheaton is an ethnic food center, and here is one of its Thai places. There are many Thai places in Maryland, and as far as I can tell, they are all excellent.
Ghin Na Ree, 2509 N. Harrison St. and Lee Highway, Arlington, 536-1643, closed Monday lunch.
A classic mom and pop. They even let the small child have one of the tables for her toys and crayons. Charming decor, and one of the most authentic Thai places around. Is this the best Thai place in the area? No. Is it worth going anyway? Yes. Spicy.
Thai Hut, 408 South Van Dorn St., West Alexandria, 823-5357.
Another of the Van Dorn St. entries on this list. Not fully consistent, but the peaks are high. I love the Crispy Fish in Black Bean Sauce, although the other whole fish dish is not so great. But order the fish, plus the Mee Krob and the Nam Sod, and you are in for a treat.
Sorn Dang, King St., near the Metro stop, Alexandria, opens for dinner at 6:00.
Very spicy Thai and very good.
Benjarong, 855-C Rockville Pike, Wintergreen Shopping Center, Rockville, 301-424-5533, closed Sunday lunch.
A very good Thai place, somewhat
more expensive than most but also nicer than average.
Trinidadian
The Islander, formerly on 1762 Columbia Road, now reopened at U St., at 12th or so.
I haven't been here in ages, but it once had some excellent spicy food, basically in the Indian and Jamaican directions. Not a budget-buster, either. I will try it again soon.
Turkish
Nizam's, 523 Maple Ave., Vienna, 938-8948.
Doner Kebab on Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday, and Sunday. A full-priced restaurant, but the food is good. A Vienna institution. I especially like the ravioli in yogurt sauce.
Kazan, 6813 Redmond Drive, McLean, 734-1960, closed Sunday.
Receives less publicity than Nizam's, but better in my opinion. Closer to real Turkish food. One of the first oases in the former dining drought known as McLean.
Topkapi, 3529 Chain Bridge Road, Fairfax, near Rt. 66 intersection, 273-4310.
I only ate here once. The quality of the ingredients was decent, but the food was too bland for my taste.
Vegetarian
Sunflower Vegetarian Restaurant, 2531 Chain Bridge Road, 319-3888, just a bit south of Nutley Rd.
Many vegetarian dishes, good quality ingredients, but I find each dish combines too many ingredients. Many vegetarians love this place, though. If you want it really spicy, speak up, don't just say "spicy" or they will treat you like a wimp.
Vietnamese
Viet Royale, In Eden Center, Arlington, off Wilson Boulevard, near Rt.7. This center is a bit hard to find, but has many excellent restaurants - a visit is a must. The center of Vietnamese life in northern Virginia. Excellent stores as well. I suspect no one goes to the Eden Center just once.
Avoid anything that sounds like Chinese food, the standard advice in a Vietnamese restaurant. The lobster is excellent, for one thing. On weekdays, order the Bo 7 Mon - Seven Courses of Beef. Not as intimidating as it sounds. In any case, this restaurant is much better than the overrated Queen Bee, a favorite of Phyllis Richman's.
Four Sisters, right next to Viet Royale in the Eden Center.
A bit fancier than Viet Royale, hard to compare the two, they are both very strong. I prefer the vegetable dishes here, though, when you want to go Vegetarian. Fancier decor and less crowded, but inferior atmosphere. Both have very diverse menus.
Majestic Restaurant, 2922 Annandale Blvd., Falls Church, 22042, 538-8888.
The best dishes here are great. Go for the fried frogs' legs in butter sauce, and make sure they bring you the dip, which is pepper mixed with lime juice. One of my favorite dishes from this whole guide. The seafood is great also. Not a fully consistent restaurant (many of the beef dishes are ordinary), but the peaks here are very high. I recommend the crab with tamarind, for those willing to struggle.
Galaxy Restaurant, 155 Hillwood Ave., Falls Church, 534-5450, near the intersection of Rt.29 and 7, off Annandale Rd.
An innovative Vietnamese restaurant specializing in the imperial cuisine of the Hue region. Quality is variable, but get the appetizer with minced clams and pork, a real treat.
Hoa's, 301 S. Washington St., Falls Church, 534-3332. On Rt. 29.
Some Fairfax residents people will find this to be the Vietnamese place closest to their homes. I only ate here once, and had a good goat curry.
Saigon Palace, 6208 E. Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, 532-0940. In the mall with Best Buy, where you can go CD shopping, and Barnes and Noble down below on the other side. Good Vietnamese. Excellent steamed dumplings. All they need to do is fix the soda machine...
Cha Gio, on Rt.50, across from Loehmann's Plaza.
The bowls of noodles with grilled beef are especially good here. Make sure you pour lots of fish sauce in yours. Also relatively close to Fairfax. A real treat, very cheap.
Vietnamese soups
For Vietnamese soups, try any number of local Pho places, first choice is always in Eden Center, but the one in Culmore Shopping Center, Bailey Crossroads is quite good, also Pho 75, 3103 Graham Road, Suite B, Falls Church, 204-1490, and the one on Main Street (236) in Fairfax, just a bit east of Robert Road, on the left side.
The soups will be fragrant, filling, very cheap, and often intriguing. Beef, mint, bean sprouts, brisket, tripe, chilies, and lemon, are among the ingredients that are in the soup already or can be mixed in. Vietnamese fast food. Blows McDonalds away. Should be a staple for us all. Why isn't it?
West African
See also Ghanian, Nigerian, Senegalese.
D.C. Casa Africana, 2341 18th St., NW, 202-986-8777, I believe also at 941-1 Bonifant St., Silver Spring, 301-585-5659.
Good West African food, including some lesser-known dishes from places like Togo. I've only been once, and don't have a final evaluation, but it is at least worthwhile, maybe more.
West Indian
Caribbean Palace, 7680 New Hampshire Ave., Takoma Park Shopping Center, 301-431-1563, right at University Blvd.
The place smells great, but I have never eaten there. Take-out only - that's why. Those who live closer should go. See also under Jamaican and Haitian, for some other suggestions.
Yemeni
Algazera Restaurant, 3813-D S. George Mason Drive, Falls Church, 379-2749, where Seminary hits GMU Drive, but around in the back, don't miss this place!
One of the most unique places
on this list. The quality of the lamb here is excellent, as is the soup.
A bit like other Middle Eastern cuisine, although spicier. Great atmosphere
too, most of the customers are Yemeni. Definitely worth knowing.
Happy eating, and stay tuned for future editions!
Address comments and suggestions to Tyler Cowen, Economics, George Mason University, Fairfax, VA 22030, tcowen@gmu.edu