Tyler Cowen's Ethnic Dining Guide – February 2008, 24th edition.

The Guide is also available in search-able, browse-able format.

A Note to Dining Guide Readers

Dear Readers,

I know that you who have been readers of my ethnic dining guide have also helped contribute content. I am very grateful for the time and trouble you have taken to send along information.

I just wanted to let you know I have a new book out which might interest you. It is called Discover Your Inner Economist: Use Incentives to Fall in Love, Survive Your Next Meeting, and Motivate Your Dentist.

It is a fun romp through many topics, including food. The book has a whole chapter on how to find a good restaurant, what to order, where in a city you can find the best food, and many related questions. I like to think that if you find the dining guide useful you will enjoy this book as well.

Tim Harford from The Financial Times describes the book as follows: Tyler Cowen is an economist, culture vulture, restaurant critic and the best blogger in the world. All roles are on display in Discover Your Inner Economist. It's charming, smart and very, very creative. And it will change your life in the best way: in small steps.

It also has a very nice blurb from Stephen Dubner and Steve Levitt, of Freakonomics fame.

Anyway, if you have enjoyed my blogging, I would appreciate if you would pre-order my book. In return you would be helping me earn enough money to keep up the dining guide and the free blogging.

The Amazon link is here. The Barnes & Noble link is here.

Don't hesitate to recommend it your friends!

Again, thanks for reading me and I hope you enjoy my latest! Do please send me any further restaurant information you might have!

Regards,

Tyler

Special Introduction

I am pleased to report that the Food Page of The Washington Post wrote up this guide in the summer of 2001. Here is the article, The Lone Critic. Here is another article, Chasing the Perfect Meal, from the Fairfax Connection, the spring of 2004.

I wish to offer thanks to all those who offered dining suggestions and evaluations (keep them coming!). This has made the guide better, and longer, than before. It also means the guide has more unvisited places than before. I hope to get to them soon! Many thanks also to Doug Hanks, for his excellent article.

General remarks

Restaurants manifest the spirit of capitalist multiculturalism. Entrepreneurship, international trade and migration, and cultural exchange all come together in these communal eateries.

In the last fifteen or so years, the Washington D.C. area has become a leader in ethnic restaurants. We lag behind New York City and Los Angeles, but we vie with Chicago and the Bay Area for third place in the United States. In some areas, such as Ethiopian cuisine, we are number one.

This guide is intended to help individuals enjoy good food, and keep my favorite places in business. Effective consumer choice improves your eating and, in the long run, improves the quality of available restaurants.

The better ethnic restaurants tend to have many of their kind in a given geographic area. Single restaurant representations of a cuisine tend to disappoint. Competition increases quality and lowers prices. The presence of many restaurants of a kind in an area creates a pool of educated consumers, trained workers and chefs, and ingredient supplies - all manifestations of increasing returns to scale.

Many of the best ethnic restaurants on this list come from the well-represented cuisines. This region is particularly strong in Salvadorean, Peruvian, Bolivian, Afghan, Ethiopian, Korean, Vietnamese, Indian, and now Chinese cuisines. And when it comes to the last few years, the rise in Chinese is the big local story.

The best ethnic restaurants are often found in suburban strip malls, where rents are lower and the degree of feasible experimentation is greater. Small and cheap ethnic restaurants are often better than large ones. Northern Virginia and Maryland are underrated; Adams-Morgan, although it has many fine places, is by no means the fount of ethnic food. West Alexandria, Bailey's Crossroads, Wheaton, Chantilly, and Fairfax are underrated; Georgetown, Old Town Alexandria, and Bethesda are overrated.

After you have chosen a restaurant, you must order. Ordering is often a more important decision than choosing the restaurant. Keep in mind that restaurant staff can be unreliable; sometimes they will steer you towards something safe and uninteresting. (Many Chinese still express amazement that many Westerners can eat with chopsticks, for instance.)

Some rules of thumb, none of which are absolute:

1. Avoid dishes that are "ingredients-intensive." Raw ingredients in America - vegetables, butter, bread, meats, etc. - are below world standards. Even most underdeveloped countries have better raw ingredients than we do, at least if you have a U.S. income to spend there, and often even if one doesn't. Ordering the plain steak in Latin America may be a great idea, but it is usually a mistake in Northern Virginia. Opt for dishes with sauces and complex mixes of ingredients. Go for dishes that are "composition-intensive."

2. Appetizers often are better than main courses. Meals composed of appetizers and side dishes alone can be very satisfying. Thai and Lebanese restaurants provide the classic examples of this principle.

3. Avoid desserts. Most ethnic restaurants in America, no matter how good, usually fall flat with the desserts. Especially if the restaurant is Asian.

4. Order more than you plan to eat. Keep in mind that you are ordering for variety, not for quantity. You can always take the rest home.

Actually the best advice is to do exactly what I recommend under each particular heading.

Over the last few years I see two big trends. The first is that we now have plenty of places with first-rate Chinese food. Our region used to be pathetic in this category, now it is a leading light. So if you feel you don’t really enjoy Chinese food so much, think again. Second, northern Virginia has taken a clear lead. Fifteen years ago Maryland had better ethnic food, but now we are ahead in Chinese, Indian, and most other areas as well, excepting of course the Caribbean.

Now to the restaurants. But before proceeding, don't assume that it's always open (although it usually is), or even that it's still there. Typically I have restricted my entries to what I regard as the best, or most interesting, examples of that cuisine in the area.

Remember, if you don’t like these, you probably didn’t follow my advice for what to order. Or you are to blame in some other manner, I don’t know which one, there are many possibilities. The most likely are that you simply don’t have very good taste, or perhaps you are not very bright. Too bad.

Before giving you the encyclopedia, here is SOME PLACES YOU MUST TRY. This feature focuses on places you might not already know, overlooking such notable (but known) restaurants as Panjshir, for Afghan food, Duangrat’s (Thai), or the Vietnamese places at Eden Center (how can you pick just one?).

SOME PLACES YOU MUST TRY:

Saravana Palace, 11725 Lee Highway, #A15, Fairfax, 703-218-4182, one light west of Fairfax Wegman’s, turn into the strip mall, directions are here: http://www.saravanapalaceva.com/.

Go for the weekend lunch buffet, which has both better items and a broader selection. Right now this is the best southern Indian, or Indian vegetarian place around. The largest selection of dosas and related items, such as Pesarat. Great okra. Yogurt rice. Carrot dishes. Every vegetable dish is first-rate. Raises the bar for all other Indian vegetarian places. Go, go, go. Excellent for people-watching as well.

Thai X-ing, 515 Florida Ave., 202-332-4322, no lunch,

All take-out, but this place is becoming legendary. One table, four chairs. One guy cooks for you. You need to call in your order in advance. The drunken noodles and the curries are superb. The salmon is awesome, the larb too. Quirky décor, mostly designed by the chef/owner. Here is one good review: http://www.intowner.com/fr/food/reviews/September2006.htm. Here is the menu: http://www.inshaw.com/blog/Thai%20X-ing.htm. Patrons are advised to call in advance to avoid long waits.

Hong Kong Palace, formerly Saigon Palace, 6387 E. Leesburg Pike, Seven Corners Center, Falls Church, 532-0940. In the mall with Home Depot and Barnes and Noble, though both are down below on the other side of the mall.

This was the premier Cantonese place around, but now it is Sichuan, at least if you ask for the special Chinese menu. The lamb with cumin is excellent, the Dan Dan noodles are very good, the fish in the bowl with all the chiles is a knock-out, and they are putting in real spice. The place keeps on getting better. The beef with bamboo shoot is especially good, as are the Chengdu dumplings. The specials are superb. Right now the clientele is 100 pct. Chinese, a good sign. Currently the best Chinese place around.

Meaza, 5700 Columbia Pike, Falls Church, 703-820-2870, I’m not sure about the number on Rt.7, it is what their card says but some people tell me it is wrong. In any case it is on Col. Pike just east of Rt.7 by Circuit City.

Excellent, excellent Ethiopian, maybe as good as the DC dumps. But it’s a nice restaurant too. The fish tibs you can’t get in other places. First-rate kitfo. Wide variety. A clear #1 Ethiopian for Virginia and yes it is pressing on the DC places too. Attached to a coffee shop, plus they have Ethiopian music on some nights. Definitely recommended, although perhaps I would prefer if the dinin*g room had more light.

Minerva, 10364 Lee Highway, Fairfax, 383-9200, plus a smaller branch in Herndon, 2443-GI Centreville Rd., 793-3223. www.minervacuisine.com.

The best. Amazing buffet for lunchtime, weekend lunch is when you should go. Real Indian food, north and south. Truly spicy. The best are the dishes that look weird or unusual. Use the chutneys. Use the curd rice. Experiment. One of the best places on this list if you know how to choose from the buffet properly. Buffet spicier, and more interesting, on the weekends. (Non-buffet) dinner is also excellent, though sometimes a bit slow. Opt for their unusual dosas and south Indian specialties. Great for people-watching, especially at lunch.

You’ll notice they have some Chinese dishes, which mimic how Chinese food is served in India. The peppered chicken is best. Indians love these, they are evidence of how authentic the restaurant is, not the contrary.

Udupi Palace, 1329 University Boulevard East, Langley Park, 301-434-1531.

A great place. Southern Indian food in profusion. Goes well beyond the usual dosa places. The food is an entire level better, and the selection is far more extensive. A real treat. I especially recommend any kind of dosa, the Pesarat, the vegetable dishes, and the yogurt rice. By the way, the Latino music shop next door has some good stuff that is not available in your local Tower.

Rasika, 633 D St., NW, near MCI Center, 202-637-1222, www.rasikarestaurant.com.

Right now this is one of the best places in DC, although given its trendy nature, I expect it to decline with a year or two. The food here has real taste, much as you might find in India. Nice décor. Many fine touches in the cooking. The best dish is the spinach (somewhat fried or frittered), with corn; better than it sounds. Also get the cauliflower. The way to go here is to order starters, chats, appetizers, etc. and avoid the good but less innovative main courses. Superb okra. Going all-vegetarian here is not a mistake. Good prawns. Overall a strong entry into Washington’s dining scene. Go lots and get lots.

Passage to India, 4931 Cordell Ave., near Old Georgetown Road, Bethesda, 301-656-3373.

This gem is still underrated. This used to be a branch of Heritage India, but now it is run by the original founder. It offers unique Indian regional specialties. In fact only here in this area can you eat specialties of Bombay and Calcutta, among other parts of India. This place is more like a high-class Indian restaurant of India than anywhere else around. Highly recommended, and make sure you get the regional specialties. Check out www.passagetoindia.info.

Sichuan Village, 14005 Lee Jackson Highway (Rt.50), just east of Rt.28, Chantilly, 703-631-5888, same strip mall as Il Mee.

This place is from the titans that brought you the old Formosa Café in Crystal City. The new place is much more Szechuan, although they have added many heinous dishes and a heinous buffet for some of their heinous customers. Ignore those downsides. The real Chinese food here is superb. Get the Ants on a Stick, Tofu and Fish Fillet inVery Hot Sauce, Cold Pig’s Maw with Ginger and Garlic, Chengdu Kung Pao Chicken, Braised Beef with Brown Sauce, Tea Smoked Duck, Steamed Pork Bun Han Style, and Dumplings Zhong’s Style. And that is just a start.

Pho 75, 3103 Graham Road, Suite B, Falls Church, 204-1490, go early to avoid the line. Do not fear tripe and the other nasty bits. Learn to eat for crunch and texture.

Eamonn’s –A Dublin Chipper, 728 King St, Alexandria, (703) 299-8384

Have I ever told you what a fish and chips fanatic I am? I scoured New Zealand for a year, looking for the best fish and chips (and found it). I had amazing fish and chips, on the street in the town’s central plaza, in Bergen, Norway. That was the highlight of my entire trip. So my standards are high. And I’m pleased to report that I really enjoyed this place. The fish is very good, enough said. The mushy peas are first-rate. No, it’s not as good as the best in Kiwiland but I remain shocked by the quality and I am happy to recommend it. NB: Tables can be hard to get, so go when the pressure is off.

Thai Square, 3217 Columbia Pike, just east of Glebe.

I’ve been going to this place quite a lot lately. It is one of the three or four best Thai places around, and probably the one most popular with Thais. Excellent atmosphere, lots of small Thai kids. The best satay around, without a doubt. The best green curry. Very original pig's knuckle dish with fragrant spicing. Very highly recommended. Not as fancy as Duangrat's but in some regards a more durable restaurant.

Zengo DC, 781 7^th St., NW, www.modernmexican.com.

Richard Sandoval and Placido Domingo own this place. Modern Mexican mixed in with Pan-Asian, one of the best places in town. The look is very stylish, and reminds the visitor of Manhattan or Mexico City. A hip crowd. The hamachi is superb, also get the empanadas; don’t say “I don’t like empanadas, they are dull, crusty things.” Swallow each arepa in a single bite. Not cheap, but for what you get it is reasonably priced.

Viet Bistro, in Eden Center, Arlington, off Wilson Boulevard, near Rt.7, 703-538-7575. in the corner of the mall closest to the street, don’t miss it.

Right now this is the best place in the Eden Center and indeed the best Vietnamese place around. Finer and fresher than Four Sisters. Get the baby clams, the caramel fish, the frogs’ legs, the eel, anything with lemon grass, and the shaking beef. Consistently tasty and refined. Good for vegans and vegetarians also, first-rate tofu.

Madjet, 1102 U St., NW, 202-265-4779.

An up-and-coming Ethiopian place on U St.. I like #9, the beef special, one of the best Ethiopian dishes in DC and not found in most other places. The Titanic Tibs is good too. The word “Shiro” also will do good things for you. High quality, although (because?) the menu is more limited than in most places.

Abiti, 1909 9^th St., 202-328-2223.

Another Ethiopian restaurant from the very consistent 9^th St. row. The lentils or split peas (Shiro) are the specialty. In fact they are the best I have ever had, anywhere, in any cuisine. The kitfo is first-rate as well. This is perhaps not the most versatile Ethiopian place, but it is one of the best. Note that all the seats are low-lying, and require you to bend over your food. I don’t mind but some might.

Indique, 3512 Connecticut Ave., at Cleveland Park Metro.

Very good Indian cuisine, a dining peak for this area. Nouvelle Indian, with nice dining quarters, but ultimately more Indian than nouvelle. Everything is excellent, but get as many appetizers as possible, ten or twelve I would say.

China Bistro/Mama’s Dumplings, 755 Hungerford Drive, Rockville, 301-294-0808.

Order items 38 to 45, the dumplings. Dumplings. These are the best dumpling around, by an order of magnitude and yes I do know Joe’s Noodle House. The other stuff here is only so-so.

China Star, Rt.236, Fairfax, in the same shopping center as Kinko’s and Cinema Arts Theatre.

Great Szechuan if you know how to order properly. Get the spicy dishes and the specialties of the house. The Szechuan chili chicken has to be seen to be believed; get it on the bone. Get the sea bass with pine nuts and the crystal shrimp. The dried fried green beans. The Szechuan preserved fish. The Szechuan scallion fried fish, which goes well with the chicken with leeks. Don’t forget the Lion’s Head in Hot Pot. Get the dishes you have never heard of. Watch what everyone else is eating. The daily specials usually are excellent. The ordinary “Chinese” dishes here are quite unexceptional, avoid them. This can blow the roof off your mouth, they have four categories: normal, spicy, very spicy, and numbing. That should be all you need to know. For a fresh look at Chinese food, visit this place. I go back, and back, and back.

Mark's Duck House, 6184-A Arlington Blvd., Willston Center 1, Falls Church, 532-2125. Hard to see from the road, on Rt. 50 just east of Rt.7, north side of the street, look for the CVS. Usually opened.

A real Cantonese restaurant, replete with hanging ducks in the window and everything. Get the crispy pork, and also some variant of the noodles. I love the tofu as well. I am less enamored of the duck and chicken, but this is an excellent restaurant, and very authentic, in the hands of a wise orderer. It's also very cheap, so take advantage of the prices to order many items. Great dim sum too.

A&J Restaurant, 4316 Markham St., Annandale, 813-8181, just east of Beltway, or 1319 Rockville Pike, 301-251-7878.

Manchurian food and dim sum, one of the best places around. Tasty, original, and very cheap. I love the soups and dumplings. The boiled peanuts and shredded bean curd are other favorites. The smoked chicken has been especially good lately. But you can’t go wrong here, just make sure you get lots of things, and with the median item price below three dollars, this is not hard to do.

Joe’s Noodle House, 1488-C Rockville Pike, near Congressional Lane, Rockville, 301-881-5518.

Superb Szechuan food. Many little items. You order and they bring it to your crowded table. As close to real Chinese food as you are going to get around here. A very exciting place to visit, highly recommended. Plus the best dumplings around.

El Tapatio, 4309 Kenilworth Ave., Bladensburg, 301-403-8882, open 10 to 10 every day, don’t you love those hours?

This is a real Mexican place, treasure the thought. In LA or Houston this restaurant would be only average, but that is still great in absolute terms. Get the goat (“birria del chivo”). The best chile relleno around. Very good tacos. A lifesaver, the first Mexican place I can recommend

A Taste of Morocco, 3211 N. Washington Blvd., Arlington, 527-7468. Opens for dinner at 5.

Primarily à la carte, very tasty, authentic, and very reasonably priced. The crust on the Bistillah (a pie of chicken, almonds, raisins, cinnamon and sugar) is properly thin. At a Moroccan place always get the Bistillah. Everything is good, but it is the Bistillah, and the Bistillah alone, that elevate this place to my favorites list. In case you don’t know, imagine a yummy pie full of chicken, topped with cinnamon and sugar and totally sinful. It isn’t even a dessert.

Pike Pizza, at the intersection of Columbia Pike and George Mason, probably that is Arlington, 703-521-3010.

First-rate Bolivian. They do not, however, have pizza, despite the name. The best Bolivian sausage around, too. Amazing atmosphere.

Il Mee Buffet, 7031-4A Duke St., Annandale, just west of George Mason branch of Fairfax County library, 642-2100. See also 14015 Lee Jackson Highway, Chantilly, 703-631-3400.

An excellent Korean restaurant with an amazing degree of choice. Huge, note that all they have is a very large buffet, reasonably priced. Everything is great and surprisingly fresh. Don’t worry if you hate buffets, as I do, drop your reluctance and go. Everything here is fresh and outstanding. Get the cold soups. The kimchees. Make sure you dip your grilled meats in the sauces.

Le Matin de Paris, 4217 Annandale Center Drive, 703-914-0088, www.lematindeparis.net. Hard to find but near the main Annandale post office. And they have a new branch, much larger with seating, at 7326-A Little River Turnpike, Annandale, by the Pollo place and across from Jerry’s.

A Korean bakery, and with many desserts. Must be tasted to be believed. Incredible. Go. Will appeal to the Western palate. I usually don’t list bakeries but this place is extraordinary. Go, go, go.

Chez Yonyon, 834 Chillum Rd., Hyattsville, 301-853-0404.

Haitian food, the fried pork is my favorite, the fish is good too. You can’t go wrong at Haitian restaurants, as long as you steer clear of the macaroni and cheese. But the real question is not what you want, but rather what they have in that day. This is not better than average Haitian food, but it doesn’t have to be. The rice and beans are always superb, mix in the spicy sauces.

Shamshiry, 8607 Westwood Center Drive, Vienna, VA, 703-448-8883. Off of Route 7, near the Dulles access road. Not visible from any road. Turn left at the right place, and head towards the back. Near Oriental Regency, down a bit from United Airlines.

An excellent Persian place. Kabobs only, which I usually find dry and unexciting, but this place is a winner. Best rice in the area, very fragrant. The Barberry Rice and Cherry Rice, with chicken or beef respectively, are highly worthwhile. The Barberry Rice is wonderfully tangy and sour and the berries are luscious. What kind of rice you order is the real decision here, not what kind of meat. Ask for the beef medium rare, or even rare, if you order meat. The salmon is my favorite, with Zereshk Polo, make sure you rub Maast Moosir (a kind of thick yogurt sauce) into the whole thing, liberally. Excellent people-watching also, if you are interested in the Persian upper-middle class.

Ruan Thai, 11407 Amherst Ave., Wheaton, 301-942-0075, not so far from Rt.29 and University Blvd.

My Thai restaurant of choice in Maryland. Not just the usual stuff. Fresh ingredients, and truly spicy. When it comes to ordering, you can’t go wrong. This place is exactly what a Thai restaurant should aspire to be.

Horace & Dickie’s Seafood Carryout, 809 12^th St. NE, Washington, 202-396-1083. There is another branch on Martin Luther King Ave., somewhere.

The best fried fish in the area, a must. Amazing atmosphere, take-out only, bad neighborhood, get the picture? Fish, fish, fish. That’s all they have. And it is fried, fried, fried. You may not go often, due to the associated inconveniences, but a gem. They also have great fries, collard greens, potato salad. Crab cake surprisingly decent. Go, go, go.

Thanh Son Tofu, 6793/A Wilson Blvd., Eden Center, just north of Dragon Star, Falls Church, 703-534-1202.

They serve one main dish, tofu. That’s right, just slabs of tofu, done three main ways. Five for a dollar. The best tofu around, period. Tofu to die for. Tofu. Wonderful tofu. The Vietnamese love this place. By the way, you’d better be in the mood for tofu.

Fogo de Chao, 1101 Pennsylvania Ave., 202-347-4668, www.fogodechao.com, Saturday opens at 4:30, Sunday at 4:00.

A clear first choice for Brazilian right now. Churrascaria. All the meat you can eat. The quality is surprisingly high, and the salting is just right. From a chain based in Sao Paulo. Excellent salad bar. Not the real thing, but closer than I thought they would come. Dinner starts at $44.50, though, lunch starts at $24.50.

The Mandalay, 930 Bonifant St., near Georgia Ave., Silver Spring, 301-585-0500.

The best Burmese place around. Order many dishes and follow their lead. A superb restaurant. I’ve only been once, but I do not hesitate to put the place on my favorites list.

Punjab Dhaba, 7263-F Arlington Blvd, Loehmann's Plaza, Falls Church, 698-5262.

The best tandoori, great breads, and excellent lentil dumplings. The dosas (see South Indian, for a description of dosas) are no joke either. Great atmosphere also, and cheaper than average. The special Uttapam dish is great as well. The counter food is good, though mixed, sometimes too salty. And after you are done eating, you can go see an Indian movie in the Indian movie theater in the Loehmann’s Plaza mall. Some even have English subtitles, but don’t worry if they don’t. In any case, if you come here start with the Tandoori but note that it takes fifteen minutes because it is done properly fresh.

Peking Eastern House, 16041 Frederick Rd Rockville, 301-527-8558.

This is a real Chinese Muslim restaurant! I liked the humburgers [sic] best of all. Get lots of meat dishes, get lots of cumin, get noodles. Ask for help. Don’t let them pawn off their standard “Chinese” food on you. Be aggressive and firm.

Wegman’s, 45131 Columbia Place, Sterling, with a branch in Fairfax as well off Rt.29, the Sterling one is right off Rt.28, turn west at either Commercial or Waxpool.

The best supermarket, with a dozen restaurants inside as well. Imagine Whole Foods times five, plus your favorite brands, plus half a dozen ethnic groceries. I don’t usually list supermarkets, but this place is worth its weight in gold. The meats are excellent, the seafood selection amazing, the spice selection first-rate, and the cooked foods can be surprisingly good. The cheese and olive bars are hard to believe. An “A” for design as well. Go, and go often, this place has revolutionized food shopping. You might find you don’t even need this guide anymore. Note: the Sterling branch has better foodstuffs than Fairfax, though both are impressive.

Those are some of my favorites, now to the longer list!

Afghan

Bamiyan, 5634 Leesburg Pike, 703-820-7880, just east of Borders.

One of the best Afghan places around, the kabobs are juicy and succulent. That being said, I have some complaints. The air conditioning is overdone. The dining room is huge and understaffed. I can’t imagine trying to eat here at 8 p.m. on a Saturday evening. The appetizers all have strong minty tastes. This is better than going the sweet route, but a certain sameness creeps in. With some modest changes, this place could be very very good. Right now it hovers between good and very good.

Star Restaurant Banquet, 7203 Little River Turnpike, Annandale, 703-750-2450.

An authentic albeit underpopulated Afghan place, with a huge room for weddings and banquets. Their plans and their achievement seem totally out of scale. That said, it could be the best Afghan place to visit right now. Very good kadu, not too sweet. Their bready things are yummy, I quite liked the third appetizer, the pastry stuffed with leeks, add yogurt on top. The meats are not so tender but they are very tasty. How long can this place last? Should you be discouraged by the thought of entering a huge cavern and not even being greeted by a hostess? Who knows? Enjoy it while you can.

Panjshir, 924 Broad Street, Falls Church, 536-4566,

Panjshir II, 224 Maple Ave. West, 281-4183, both closed Sunday lunch.

The premier gourmet Afghan place. The two branches are indistinguishable, as the food is cooked in the same kitchen. The kebabs are good but boring, get the stews, but especially the side dishes. The Kadu, the pumpkin, is a must. One side order serving is usually not enough for two people, so get two. This place offers many wonders. I love the apple, prunes, and walnut combinations. Saturday lunch is an excellent deal. For dinner for two, order all of the side dishes, plus the Mantu. The service is a bit slow, I think they do it on purpose, though for no good reason.

Afghan Restaurant, 2700 Jefferson Davis Highway, Alexandria, 548-0022.

Smaller menu, less fine, grittier, and more authentic. A bit out of the way for me, but worth having in the repertoire.

Food Corner, 7031-A Little River Turnpike, 703-750-2185.

Very mom and pop. Relatively authentic Afghan food, including vegetable dishes, kabobs also. Excellent bread. Greasy but good. Unfortunately, they took their best dishes, Aushak and Mantu, off the menu.

Grill Kabob Express, 11213-J Lee Highway, off Rt.29, Fairfax, 703-569-7259.

I like their buffet better than their kabobs. Good chick peas, spinach, excellent bread, tasty rice, fresher vegetables than found on the other Afghan buffets. Not a perfect restaurant, but worth visiting if you live or work in the area. The kabobs are “good enough,” but not competitive with my two or three favorites. The hamburger meat with the lentils, on the buffet, is my favorite.

Charcoal Kabob, 394 Elden St., Herndon, 703-435-2400.

Above average kabob place, with some Afghan dishes too. Recommended. This mall in Herndon, and the accompanying strip, is one of the best locales around for ethnic food.

Kabul Kabob House, 514A South Van Dorn St., West Alexandria, 703-751-1833.

Excellent Afghan food. The kabobs are very good but I like the stews and mixed dishes best. Fresh salads and good use of vegetables. The best Afghan place, apart from Panjshir, for vegetables. They don’t always have pumpkin, though, which is the best Afghan dish. Worth trying in any case.

Faryab Afghan Cuisine, 4917 Cordell Ave., between Norfolk and Old Georgetown, Bethesda, 301-951-3484.

I’ve yet to go but I bet it is good, Afghan food is close to a sure thing.

Halal Kabab House, 6245 Little River Turnpike, Alexandria, 703-354-1848.

Afghan kababs, in the mall with TemptAsian café, across from Tower, near Landmark Plaza. And for that reason I will, sadly, never go here.

Food Corner II, 7031 Brookfield Plaza, Springfield.

Afghan, perhaps a branch of Food Corner (see above), but they also have kept the rotisserie chicken from the Latin place that used to be here. I have yet to go.

African

See under the specific African cuisines, such as Senegalese, Ghanaian, Nigerian, and Cameronian, as well as West African. Not to mention Ethiopian, Eritrean, and Sudanese. I hereby offer formal apology to all Eritreans for lumping them in with Ethiopian, but I simply cannot tell one cuisine from the other.

American

Mitsitam, in the National Museum of the American Indian, 4^th St. and Independence, SW, 10-5 every day, sometimes very crowded.

They have five restaurants in one, many of them try to represent various Indian dishes. Well, sort of. You can get buffalo burgers, tamales, Northwest salmon, quinoa grain salad, corn on the cob, cranberries, pumpkin, cactus salad, tacos, and smoked turkey sandwich. I’ve yet to find a single dish that fully delivers, where else can you eat on the Mall? I give at an “A” for effort, at the very least.

Morton's, 8075 Leesburg Pike, Vienna, 883-0800, look for Tiffany's and Chili's, park, and walk to the west side of the mall.

A dominant restaurant. Affordable at lunchtime, and makes a great buy. It's hard to find better beef than this. High quality on all fronts. The chopped sirloin for lunch is an amazing bargain. Dinner looks very expensive, but since the steaks feed at least two people, just order one. There is also a branch in Georgetown. At either branch, beware the cigar smokers.

Bailiwick Inn, Fairfax, 4023 Chain Bridge Rd., 691-2266, odd hours, reservations mandatory.

Believe it or not, this place is good, albeit not cheap. Most people don't even know it is there.

Hitching Post Restaurant, 200 Upshur St., near Rock Creek Church Road, NW, 202-726-1511.

A casual American restaurant. One reader recommends the friend chicken, white beans with neck meat, and the macaroni and cheese. Sietsema wrote a good review of it too.

Clyde's, Reston Town Center, plus branches near Tysons, in Georgetown, and in Chevy Chase.

When dining with the wimpy, I go to the Tysons one, which is across from Borders, back behind Rt.7 a bit and not visible from the road. The bar scene here is unattractive, but the food is pretty good, reliable, and not overpriced. Many will scorn this place, but it comes in handy.

Majestic Café, 911 King St., Alexandria, 703-837-9117, closed Monday.

The place has a fun Art Deco feel, circa the 1940s, plus the seafood is surprisingly good. One of your better options in Old Town Alexandria.

Artie’s 3260 Old Lee Highway, near Rt.50, Fairfax, 7030273-7600.

Surprisingly good on all fronts, get the salmon salad with goat cheese added on top. The beef ribs, not available every night, are good as well. In fact they are the best beef ribs around. But beware the lines at this place, and you can’t make a reservation in advance. One of the best places around for food sissies.

For American, see also Fine Dining, Barbecue, Seafood, Southern, Cajun, and Southwest.

Argentinean

Mar del Plata, 1410 14^th St., NW, 202-234-2679.

A useful restaurant in a dining desert, near the Whole Foods. Mostly seafood but get the pork chop. Not cheap, but your options in this area are slim. Update: Some claim it has moved to Dupont Circle.

El Patio, 12303 Twinbrook Parkway, Rockville, 301-231-9225.

Washingtonian magazine praises this place to the skies, but not a word in its favor is convincing. How can do really do this cuisine without first-rate beef, which no U.S. restaurant short of Morton’s is going to have?

Victor’s II, Rt.29, Falls Church, where Black-Eyed Pea used to be, near Mehak.

Bolivian as well, but the closest you will find to real parillada. You get an enormous plate, it is quite good but not for all tastes, be prepared for huge slabs and meat and innards. Recommended. It would almost make my favorites list, except I can’t eat this stuff more than once a year.

Divino Lounge, 7345-B Wisconsin Ave., Bethesda, 240-497-0300.

Meat, I have yet to go.

Armenian

Arax Café, also known as Coffee House and Ice Cream Parlor, Washington Blvd., in Westover, Arlington, across from the Hardware store.

Dining God Papan Devnani recommends this one. Most of the Armenian dishes are specials of the day.

Asian (Pan-Asian)

Nooshi, formerly Oodles Noodles, 1120 19th, just north of K St., NW.

A Pan-Asian place, which mixes cuisines, with an emphasis on noodles. Yummy if sometimes just a bit too sweet. When in doubt, order the peanut sauce.

Café Mozu, Hotel Mandarin Oriental, “Set at the heart of the US capital between Maine and Maryland Avenues and 12th and 14th Streets, SW,”

Expensive, but the seafood is of high quality. Some of the sauces are a bit sweet. Probably the best Pan-Asian place around, but it is two huge strikes against it. 1) If I am in that hotel, and inclined to spend money, I am headed to CityZen, and 2) a bowl of DanDan noodles, at TemptAsian, for $4.95, offers more pleasure than a Pan-Asian meal at any of these places.

Spices, 3333-A Connecticut Ave., near Ordway, 202-686-3833.

Pan-Asian food, owned by the Oodles Noodles people. By now this stuff is passe rather than new or interesting. If you like this place, it just means you haven’t enjoyed the real Asian food to be had around here. You are probably one of those carless people stuck in Washington D.C.

Café Asia, 1550 Wilson Boulevard, Rosslyn, 741-0870.

Now the place to go in Rosslyn (which isn’t saying much). Surprisingly good, and quite cheap. Tasty and spicy Asian food of all varieties, most valuable to me here are the Indonesian dishes, which are very good and hard to find elsewhere in this area. You might think that a Pan-Asian place won’t do most things well, but this place in fact does many dishes reasonably well. Looks like a big cafeteria but the setting is nonetheless somehow attractive, and this has become a place to be seen, at least by Northern Virginia standards.

Oya, 777 Ninth St., NW, 202-393-1400

This is probably the most stunning-looking restaurant in all of DC. But the “fusion” cuisine is mediocre. Supposedly French/Asian but more bland than anything else. It’s OK, at best, but I can’t recommend a trip other than for the décor.

Raku, 7240 Woodmont Ave., Bethesda, 301-718-8680

More Japanese than anything else. I used to like the old incarnation, I have yet to go here.

Asia Nora, 2213 M St., 202-797-4860.

Too expensive relative to the competition, and not tastier. Plus occasionally people have very bad experiences here.

Mantis, 1847 Columbia Rd., 202-667-2400.

Pan-Asian tapas, I have yet to go. Nor will I, they don’t have a non-smoking section.

Big Bowl, Reston Town Center, 11915 Democracy Drive, Reston, 787-8852, usually open.

Half-Asian, half-American, for Reston tekkies, this place is popular and has its defenders. Not for the purist, though. Try the curries, and hope for the best.

Sweet Ginger, in Danor Plaza, 120B Branch Road, SE, near Maple Ave., Vienna, 703-319-3922.

Vienna goes Pan-Asian. Again, note that the Pan-Asian concept started off as a bold innovation, now it is usually an excuse to get a sugary and inauthentic version of the real thing. Go to Sichuan Village instead and get the pig’s maw with ginger and garlic.

Bistro Asiatique, 4936 Fairmont Ave., Bethesda, 301-718-3400.

Has to be overpriced for what you get, I have yet to go.

Austrian

Cafe Tirolo, 4001 N. Fairfax Drive, Arlington, behind Tara Thai, closed weekends, 703-528-7809.

Run by an Austrian, so they have some posters of the Alps. Exactly the sort of place you don't expect to find in northern Virginia. Real Wiener Schnitzel, for one thing. And excellent pasta with first-rate ingredients. Best is the Veal Scallopini. The food has a strongly European feel, yet the place looks like a Deli. A unique combination, and highly recommended. At lunch it is full by 12, so beware and arrive early. Given what else you can find in Arlington and thereabouts, this is the only place left that still feels exotic.

Euro Bistro, 314 Elden St., at Herndon Parkway, 703-481-8158.

Austrian food, with some Thai (!) dishes. Spaetzle.

Leopold’s Kafe and Konditorei, 3318 M St., 202-965-6005.

Might be OK for Georgetown. The specialty is pastries, they sometimes have Tafelspitz.

Bangladeshi

House of Biryani, 5151 Lee Highway, Arlington, 703-532-4104, 11 to 10.

A hole in the wall biryani house, quite authentic, quite good. All halal, the owner is from Bangladesh. They will make it spicy if you ask. The haleem is quite soupy though still yummy. Biryani is the thing to get, goat too. This is not a perfect high quality restaurant, but if I lived nearby I would go all the time.

Barbecue

Dixie Bones, 13440 Occoquan Rd., Woodbridge, 703-492-2205, south on Rt.123, half an hour south from Fairfax, right off 95.

Worth the trip, right now this is the best barbecue around. I like the ribs best. The side orders are excellent, and cooked with great care. Make sure you try the sauces on your meat. Everyone recommends their baked goods as well. This is outside my purview but they appear to be quite fresh.

Willard’s, 4300 Chantilly Shopping Center, #1a, on Willard Rd. at the Dulles Expo Center, off Rt.28, not too far from Dulles Airport, 703-488-9970.

They have St. Louis ribs, Texas brisket, Kansas City burnt ends, North Carolina pulled pork, and Jamaican jerk chicken, among other dishes. No one of these is up to the original but at least it resembles pit barbecue. Real side dishes, too. Excellent characters come to eat at this place. Recommended.

Kenny’s BBQ Smokehouse, 732 Maryland Ave., NW, 202-547-4553.

This is really quite good North Carolina barbecue. Very much a Mom & Pop. Get the spicy sauce, which is in any case more tangy than spicy. Good collard greens. Right now the best barbecue place in DC, without a doubt.

Urban Bar-B-Que, 2007 Chapman Ave., Rockville, 240-290-4827.

Mostly take-out, they only have ten tables, always a good sign. They plan to expand, which I take to be a bad sign. The French fries are excellent. The sauces were not exactly to my taste. In any case this is a significant sign of progress. One of the best barbecue places around.

Capital BBQ, 707 H St., NW, 202-347-8396, www.capitalbbq.com.

I know, a barbecue place with a web site is not an encouraging idea. But the food here is OK, Texas style. Get the beef brisket with the spicy sauce. Not perfect, but this is better Texas barbecue than we deserve.

Red, Hot, and Blue, 1600 Wilson Boulevard, Arlington, 276-7427, several other branches including one near GMU, usually open.

Many people hate this restaurant. Given the recent proliferation of barbecue in this area, there is no longer any reason to go. It defines generic, chain barbecue, and perhaps that is worth knowing, if only to see the contrast with the real thing.

Rocklands, 2418 Wisconsin Ave., NW, 202-333-2558.

If you are thinking of bringing your friend from Kansas City or Texas, don’t.

Bubba’s Bar-B-Q, 7810-F Lee Highway, Falls Church, Merrifield Plaza, 703-560-8570, right by the Burmese place, closed Sunday.

The pork here is quite good, the staff can be rude. Get the pork and the fries.

Kenny’s Pit Bar-B-Que, 3060 Duke St., Alexandria, 703-823-3330. Also open for breakfast, closed Sunday.

Quite good, tasty. It’s run by Koreans though no Korean barbecue food here.

Old Glory, 3139 M St., Georgetown, NW, 202-337-3406.

Recommended by a reader, but I hate Georgetown.

Ribster’s, 7243 Little River Turnpike, Annandale, 703-750-2751.

Reasonably good ribs, and good prices too, especially at the weekend lunch specials. Weird and dark, you wonder how it stays in business, but in fact this is the real Annandale. You will feel like you have entered Kansas, or something like that.

Bare Bones, 20260 Goldenrod Lane in the Hampton Inn, Germantown, 301-916-3700.

Ribs are the specialty, I have yet to go.

BBQ Country, 14215-X Centreville Sq., Centreville, 703-968-5896, there are four others around as well.

I have yet to go.

Pierce’s, in or near Williamsburg, off Rt.64.

Pulled pork, recommended by many of my correspondents. They still have an open pit, which is increasingly rare these days.

Jerk Pit, 8145-C Baltimore Ave., Rt.1, College Park, 301-441-4786.

Yes, jerk is a form of barbecue. The wings are recommended. Fridays they have oxtail stew. Service is slow, because they do it the right way.

Belgian

Le Mannequin Pis, 18064 Georgia Ave., Olney, 301-570-4800, dinner only.

Yes, Belgian. Gets rave reviews. Belgian food is great in Belgium, but in Olney? Everyone raves about the mussels and the beer. Not cheap. I now hear it has a new owner, circa 2006, but the same cooks.

Belga Café, 514 Eighth St., SE, 202-544-0100, the hours are currently in flux.

Of course Belgian food is grossly underrated. This is supposed to be the best place on Capitol Hill, I will bet it is.

Bolivian

Annandale Café, 133 E. Annandale Rd., between Hillwood Ave. and S Washington St, though to me it looks like it is on Hillwood, Falls Church, 703-237-7275.

I love this place, which right now is the best Bolivian food around, despite being a bit on the dark and dingy side. I can’t imagine how they handle crowds and I suppose they don’t. The Saturday peanut soup is the best around, lots of pasta in it. The meats are very fresh. The plates are large. The authenticity level is high. They also pretend to have a connection to Argentinian food but it really is mostly Bolivian. Right now this place is a clear first choice in its category.

Bolivian Bakery, 6184 Arlington Boulevard, Falls Church, Willston Shopping Plaza, right next to Mark’s Duck House, 703-531-0777.

The “subtitle” of this restaurant is “Palacio del Silpancho”. How can you hate a place like that? This is not the very best silpancho but it is at least at the area average and sometimes above it. Maybe it is too salty in parts. But this is a very sympathetic restaurant and they have lots of fruit drinks too. Worth an occasional visit.

Elena’s Oven, 9542-B Arlington Blvd., Fairfax Circle Plaza, Fairfax, 703-352-0917.

Best is the lunch buffet, some evenings they close or don’t have Bolivian food at all, moving to Italian offerings (the entire matter of their evening hours appears to be in flux). Definitely recommended, an amazing bargain plus they will have many Bolivian places that other places don’t. Put this place in your repertoire, plus your wimpy friends can get the pasta. The pizza is also decent.

Cecilia's, 2619 Columbia Pike, Arlington, 685-0790, usually open.

The main Bolivian place in the area, and a center for Bolivian social life. Excellent food, I really like the Pork Fricasee. The menu is not purely Bolivian (Mexican specialties are offered), but you should probably order Bolivian, even though everything looks good. Music and dancing at night on weekends.

The key to Andean restaurants in the U.S. is to avoid ordering a plain piece of meat; the quality of the meat will not be bad, but it will not be high enough to justify your choice. Look instead for sauces, stews, soups, and concoctions. Or a piece of meat with lots piled on top of it, especially chiles and green sauce.

Don Arturo's Restaurant, 2716 N. Washington Blvd., Arlington, 276-1050.

One of the ultimate mom n' pops. Everything I have had here is excellent. At first you will think the restaurant is empty but then you will observe many plates of food being brought to the back room. That being said, you will never really know what is going on. I am fond of the silpancho here, (chilies and tomatoes and onion piled on meat, on top of a bed of potatoes), I like that so much I never get the chance to work through their menu. Put lots of the spicy green sauce on top.

Casa Blanca, 5037 Columbia Pike, 703-280-1904, Falls Church, just east of Bailey’s Crossroads.

Mostly a bakery but they have many Bolivian snacks. Eli Lehrer likes this place, I have yet to go.

Victor’s Menu, 436 S. Washington St., 703-532-8878, victor_brujo@yahoo.com.

I’ve now been here three times, and great every time. One of the best Bolivian places around, and probably the largest portions of any place listed on this guide.

Llajaymanta, Arlington Boulevard, in Graham Center (at Graham), next to where Cha Gio used to be.

One of the most authentic Bolivian places around. The menu is in Spanish only. The waitresses don’t speak any English. The soups and meats are very good. Great atmosphere too.

Pike Pizza, at the intersection of Columbia Pike and George Mason, probably that is Arlington, 703-521-3010.

First-rate Bolivian. They do not, however, have pizza, despite the name. The best Bolivian sausage around, too. Amazing atmosphere.

Luzmila’s Cuisine, 809 W. Broad St., Falls Church, 703-237-0047.

Mom and pop Bolivian place, not up to Don Arturo’s or the nearby Victor’s, but good enough to enjoy and very friendly and fun. Pablo Ayala tells me that their saltenas are very good.

Tutto Bene, Ballston, 501 N. Randolph St., just off Glebe Rd., across from the Harris Teeter, 522-1005.

Bolivian food on weekends, certainly good but not my first choice for Bolivian. I actually prefer the Italian dishes here, it is an Italian restaurant most of the time, very tasty. Tastes like the Italian food you get in South America, which is usually excellent, perhaps because it is especially rich. The ravioli are my favorite.

Portales, now in Springfield/Franconia I am told, 6148 Franconia Road perhaps, this place used to be on Glebe Rd.

It always looked a little boring/”continental” to me, but I have yet to visit the new locale.

My Bakery Café, off Columbia Pike, after Blair Rd., and right before Full Kee.

Recommended for Bolivian pastries and breads. One Bolivian reader recommends the “api, a purplish corn-based drink, served hot,” I may stick with jellyfish. The chicharron and mote are recommended as well.

Bosnian

Restaurant Cosmopolitan, N. Kings Highway, across from Huntington Metro Station.

I don’t yet have exact information. Food in Bosnia is excellent, I am told this leans closer to the Austro-Hungarian direction (dollop of sour cream on the top) than to Turkish. I am also told you can find Bosnian food in Washington Grill, on Vermont Ave, just north of K St. They have fried veal sausages wrapped in bread and eaten with raw onions and a sauce called ivar, consisting of peppers and eggplant.

Brazilian

Fogo de Chao, 1101 Pennsylvania Ave., 202-347-4668, www.fogodechao.com, Saturday opens at 4:30, Sunday at 4:00.

Chima Steak House, 8010 Towers Crescent Drive, Suite 100, Vienna, 703-595-7755.

The new Brazilian steak house, churrascaria, very stylish, draws a mod crowd of wealthy Latinos and sometimes Arabs. Lots of fun, not cheap, the lamb and the pork caked in cheese are the best. The salads could be improved. I like Fogo de Chao better, but because of proximity, and a Brazilian-loving daughter, I’ll end up going here yet again.

Malibu Grill, 5715 Columbia Pike, near Rt.7, Falls Church, 379-0587.

An attempt to recreate a Brazilian churrasqueria in Washington. You pay one price, and they bring various grilled meats to your table until you plead for mercy. They have feijoada as well, as part of the buffet. Ultimately the meats bore me, once the novelty of the idea wears off. The originals in Brazil are among the world's best restaurants, and the grilled meats here simply can't compare. Nonetheless this deserves a place in the repertoire, and those that have never gone should go. Now I go and just eat the feijoada, making sure to pile on the oranges and collard greens and farinha from the salad buffet, that is the key to eating well here. Lunch is a real bargain, the whole treatment for about seven dollars.

Greenfield, 1801 Rockville Pike, Rockville, Maryland, 301-881-3397.

This famous Queens churrascaria now has a branch in Maryland. The meats here are better than in the other Brazilian places of this area. That being said, the salad bar is a disappointment. Still worth the visit, however, especially if you don’t know the concept. And definitely construct your own feijoada from the salad bar, see directly above for instructions.

The Grill from Ipanema, they just changed the name, though, and redid the decor, 1858 Columbia Road, NW, 202-986-0757.

For my tastes, Brazil is one of the two or three best food countries in the world, so comparisons are tough. But this is good enough to enjoy. Get the Feijoada, a stewed mix of black beans, meats, sausage, collard greens, and the powdery farina. Make sure you add in the orange slices. A treat. Some of the other dishes are mediocre. This place stands or dies on its Feijoada. It stands.

Brazil Market, 11425 Grandview Ave, Wheaton, 301 942 8412.

They have Brazilian sandwiches, snacks, canned goods, and fried yucca thingies. Not an amazing selection but if you are yearning for a touch of Brazil this does in fact supply it.

Bread

Breadline, 1751 Pennsylvania Ave., NW, 202-822-8900. Closed weekends and dinners, mainly a breakfast and lunch place.

Everyone loves this place, I have yet to go. Supposed to have first-class ingredients, but at one-third the usual price.

Bulgarian

Cafe Sofia, 2900 Valley Ave., Winchester, 703-667-2950, closed Sunday, Saturday lunch.

Next time I am in Winchester, I'll be sure to go here. Phyllis Richman once recommended the palachinka dessert with yogurt and crepes.

Burmese

Burma Restaurant, 740 6th St., NW, 202-638-1280, located in Chinatown, not open weekend lunch.

I've had better Burmese in other countries (New Zealand and Taiwan), but most people think this is pretty good. You won't regret going, but it is not much of a draw for me. Burmese cuisine, as you would expect, lies somewhere between Indian and Thai. The dishes are all based on good ideas, but I found the execution imperfect. Maybe I should try it again.

Myanmar Restaurant, 7810-C Lee Highway, Falls Church, 703-289-0013.

Excellent if you order well. The place is hard to spot from the road, in Merrifield Park Plaza, I think, just west of the big cemeteries on Lee Highway, a bit east of Gallows. Get the Ginger Salad, and more generally don’t be afraid to go spicy. .

The Mandalay, 930 Bonifant St., near Georgia Ave., Silver Spring, 301-585-0500.

The best Burmese place around. Order many dishes and follow their lead. A superb restaurant, note they have changed their location, it used to be near U. Maryland.

A Taste of Burma, 126 Edds Lane, Sterling, 703-444-8511.

This place is supposed to be very good. As usual, in a Burmese place try some of the salads. The Post recommends the Singapore noodles as well, and the noodles more generally.

Cajun

Acadiana, 901 New York Ave., NW, 202-393-1510, www.acadianrestaurant.com.

The new Jeff Tunks place. Everyone says too much butter, not enough chiles. I have not yet been, I am waiting for someone to pay my way.

RT's Restaurant, 3804 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria, 684-6010.

Good Cajun food. Messy and relatively authentic, not as cheap as you might think. I like the peppered shrimp here.

Louisiana Express, 4921 Bethesda Ave., 301-652-6945.

Washington magazine recommends it. I do not trust them, but how bad can it be? Many of my readers like this place.

New Orleans Bistro, 4907 Cordell Ave., 301-986-8833

I am told they serve Fried Green Tomatoes.

Bardia’s New Orleans Café, 2412 18^th St., NW, 202-234-0420.

I have yet to go.

Okra’s Louisiana Bistro, 9110 Center St., Manassas, 703-330-2729.

I have yet to go.

Cajun-Thai

Lex Cajun Grill, 2608 Connecticut Ave., 202-745-0015.

No, you didn't read the subject heading wrong. This is a dual restaurant, rather than an attempt to mix. A cute idea, but is there really any advantage in it?

Cameronian – see Nigerian

Caribbean, see also Haitian, Jamaican, Cuban, and Trinidadian, among other individual headings

Cafe Atlantico, reopened near Chinatown, on 8th St., between D and E, I believe the number is 405; previously the restaurant was in Adams-Morgan. No weekend lunch.

The premier nouvelle Latin and Caribbean restaurant in this area. Eclectic and wide-ranging. Get the Cuitlacoche, a delicious Mexican corn fungus. The Jamaican jerk chicken is good as well, as does the quail and the Brazilian dish. But it has cycled chefs a number of times, so I am never sure what to expect.

They also now have a “restaurant within a restaurant”, called Minibar, 202-393-0812, I hear the place takes many chances, and doesn’t always hit.

See also Caribbean Grill, listed under Cuban. There are also some good Caribbean places on 18th St. in Adams-Morgan.

Ortanique, 730 11^th St., NW, opposite the Grand Hyatt, closed Sunday, 202-393-0975.

I have heard it is flawed, interesting, and overpriced.

Mango Mike’s, 4580 Duke St., 703-370-3800.

I went once and was very disappointed. Seemed more like a yuppie drinks place, for the sort of people who go on grisly Caribbean cruises.

Tropics Restaurant, 13016 Middlebrook Rd., Germantown, 301-772-9300.

Washingtonian likes it, plus it sounds authentic, I have yet to go.

Pierre’s, 4926 Cordell Ave., Bethesda, 301-652-7757.

Stewed oxtail, jerk pork loin with pumpkin gnocchi, etc. The City Paper published a somewhat snide review. I would not expect to find a genuine Caribbean place in this part of Bethesda, so I vote no.

Ginger Cove/Ginger Reef, 822 E St., NW, at 8^th St., 202-248-6007, 202-248-7733, the two phone numbers are for the two separate places.

Ginger Reef is only for Friday and Saturday nights, get the picture? These are party places for yuppies to buy alcohol. Flights to Haiti are quite cheap those days, so why are you visiting these restaurants? If you must go, try the appetizers. The sad thing is, these people once ran Fish Wings n’ Tings, in the good old days. They keep on reinventing the same restaurant, with successively higher prices and lower quality.

Caribbean Palace, 7680 New Hampshire Ave., Takoma Park Shopping Center, 301-431-1563, right at University Blvd.

The place smells great, but I have never eaten there. Take-out only - that's why. Those who live closer should go. See also under Jamaican and Haitian, for some other suggestions.

Also, there are several West Indian places along Georgia Ave., they tend to be clustered near the intersection with Rhode Island. Most are open only for lunch, though, which makes it hard for me to get there.

Caribbean Sea Seafood Market & Restaurant, 6869 New Hampshire Ave., Silver Spring, 301-891-3497, often closes at 8 or so.

Mostly take-out and they sell seafood as well.

Starfish Café, 539 8^th St., SE, Washington.

A pallid version of Caribbean food, or so it would appear. This place gets panned so often I can’t bring myself to go.

Zanzibar on the Waterfront, 700 Water St., SW, Waterfront, 202-554-9100.

I’ve only had snacks here, but I liked it. They sometimes have Haitian concerts, or African concerts, at night, or Zouk. And yes, I know, Zanzibar is not in the Caribbean.

Island Café, Beltway Plaza Mall, 6054 Greenbelt Road, Greenbelt, 301-345-0462.

Good roti, curries, other West Indian specialties. It is in a wonderful shopping mall, great for people watching, I bet most of my readers have never been there. One of the best mall restaurants on this list.

The Georgia Ave. row…right now you might try C+I Jackie’s One Stop, 3400 block, at Park, 202-882-7089, but the turnover is high. Usually there are a good half dozen or so Caribbean places along Georgia Ave., starting around Howard U., stretching up to Maryland.

Cheese steaks

Al’s Steak House, 1504 Mount Vernon Ave., Alexandria, 703-836-9443.

I have friends from Philly who swear that good indeed great cheese steaks exist. I’m still waiting for an existence proof. But if five of you write and tell me to try this place, I will. In any case this is supposed to be a good place for local character.

Chicken

See Peruvian, and also Colombian, and see Dragon Star, under Chinese, the best fried chicken around bar none.

Pollo Campero, 5852 Columbia Pike, just west of the Best Buy at Bailey’s Crossroads. Try also 11420 Georgia Ave., Wheaton, 301-942-6868, and 496 Elden St. Herndon.

Not Peruvian chicken, just plain fried chicken. A Latin version of KFC but far superior. The French fries and sides are excellent. By 11:00 on weekends the crowds have arrived, sometimes parking is a real pain. Excellent for people-watching, recommended if you can stand the idea of eating fried chicken.

Chili

Hard Times Cafe, 1404 King St., Alexandria, 3028 Wilson Blvd, Clarendon, 1117 Nelson St., Rockville, 394 Elden St., Herndon, usually open.

Chili up to five different ways, Texas and Cincinnati style, tasty and cheap. That being said, the tastes are blander than they used to be. Not up to the quality level in southern Ohio, but then again what is? Purists will never be happy here.

Chinese

Bob’s Noodle 66, now sometimes called Bob’s Bistro but not on the sign, 305 N. Washington St., Rockville, 301-315-6668, usually open, cash only.

Very good Chinese food, nor is it replicated by the other best Chinese places around. More Taiwanese than most local Chinese restaurants. The thick noodles are amazing. I loved the fish and the ginger casseroles. Get the oyster pancake as a starter. The last fish dish, lightly fried fish in a sweet and sour sauce, is excellent. Not to mention the tempura soft shell crab. They have duck blood too.

Peking Eastern House, 16041 Frederick Rd Rockville, 301-527-8558.

China Star, Rt.236, Fairfax, in the same shopping center as Kinko’s and Cinema Arts Theatre.

Bob’s Noodle 66, now sometimes called Bob’s Bistro but not on the sign, 305 N. Washington St., Rockville, 301-315-6668, usually open, cash only.

China Bistro/Mama’s Dumplings, 755 Hungerford Drive, Rockville, 301-294-0808.

Order items 38 to 45, the dumplings. Dumplings. These are the best dumpling around, by an order of magnitude and yes I do know Joe’s Noodle House. The other stuff here is only so-so.

Bob’s 88 Shabu Shabu, 316 N. Washington St., Rockville, 301-294-5888.

The Chinese consider 88, like 66, to be a lucky number, of course this is also the Bob of Bob’s Noodle 66, one of the best Chinese places around. Shabu refers to dipping your food into a boiling pot to cook it. In general I am opposed to this idea, rarely are the results very interesting. But this is a worthwhile restaurant. You must get your boiling mix to be “very spicy,” then you must order the most complex combination of stuff possible to put into the mix (this will depend on how many people you have). The results are genuinely delicious. I thought the fish was especially good. I might add there is a second menu, small but similar to part of the 66 place, which taken alone would make this one of the best Chinese restaurants around. No matter which route you wish to go, this place is worth trying.

TemptAsian Café, 6259 Little River Turnpike, Alexandria, 703-750-6801., just west of where 395 hits 236.

Peter Chang is gone, but it is still pretty good, though not as fine as in the past. Get the Dan Dan Noodles (it gets better as you dig in), the Scallion Chow Foon, the Dried, Minced Beef in Hot Pot, and the appetizer with fish and cilantro. After that go with the specials. Ignore the American menu. At least the service is now speedier with Chang’s departure, but of course that is part of the problem.

Fu Mei, in that Chinese grocery store on Gallows, between 29 and 50 and right by Five Guys and Peking Village, 703-208-3388.

Fully authentic Chinese comfort food, the meats are quite good, the noodles too, the chow foon, all for Chinese tastes; the food lies in the direction of oily Cantonese, not sea cucumber. Definitely recommended, and an A+ for atmosphere. They have only a few tables, all the more reason to go.

Great Wall Sichuan House Restaurant, 1527 14^th St., Washington, 202-797-8888, www.greatwallszechuanhouse.com, usually open.

Most of the food is the usual junk. Their nine ma-la dishes, posted on a small menu on the take-out window, are another story altogether. Get the bean sprouts and the double cooked pork. Quite authentic. They’ve got the whole numbing bit down pat. Very cheap. There’s not a lot of variety here, but if you care about real Chinese food this is a place you must visit. Usually it is empty, but the proprietor tells me they have been around since 2002. Mostly they serve the neighborhood with take-out.

China Canteen, 808 Hungerford Drive, Suite E, Rockville, 301-424-1616.

A real Szechuan place, dating back several years. Why didn’t more of you write me about it? Get some of the cold dishes. The Dan-Dan noodles are excellent. Otherwise get dishes that are not otherwise available in non-Szechuan restaurants. Not as good as the best of TemptAsian or China Star, but worth going to. Perhaps the most extensive Szechuan menu around.

Full Kee’s, in Chinatown, 509 H St.., 202-371-2233.

The snow pea pod leaves here, or whatever they are called, are great. As are the dumplings in the soup. Some mediocre dishes, but if you order well this place is a knock-out. Mostly Cantonese. Written up by The New York Times as one of the most interesting places in DC.

Full Kee’s, Rt.7, Falls Church, in the mall with Trader Joe’s, across from the Borders, also accessible from Columbia Pike.

The DC place just opened a branch in VA. So far better than the original, it is excellent Chinese food. Be adventurous when you order. Excellent lobster, dumplings, tofu dishes. Critics laud the casseroles, and while I can see their merits, they don’t give me much visceral enjoyment along the yummy dimension.

Seven Seas, 1776 E. Jefferson St., Rockville, 301-770-5020, usually open.

One of the very best Chinese for seafood. You must ask for the Chinese menu, otherwise don’t go. Get the Crispy Fish Hunan Style.

The Oriental Regency, 8605 Westwood Center Drive, Vienna, 827-9066, usually open, directly across from Shamshiry (see Persian), behind the American Cafe on Rt.7.

The chef has come and gone many times, so now you take your chances. But I have heard it is in an upswing again. They do have genuine Chinese items on the menu, like jellyfish. Reasonable prices as well, although the decor and staff are a bit cold.

Peking Gourmet Inn, 6029 Leesburg Pike, Baileys Crossroads, 671-8088.

An old hang-out for conservative Republicans, like George Bush Sr. and Norman Schwarzkopf. Excellent Peking duck, no advance notice required. The other dishes vary greatly, but if they use lots of garlic, or garlic sprouts, they are probably excellent. I love the Peking Chicken Wings and the leek dumplings. It often pays to go for the fatty and disgusting here, rather than the light and appetizing. Just keep in mind that many dishes here are mediocre. This is an old-style Chinese restaurant, in the sense that the help is surly and rude. But the food does come in time, which is the important thing.

Fortune, in the Barnes and Noble Mall at Seven Corners, entrances from Rt.7 and Patrick Henry Drive, who knows what the address is? and Reston, 1428 North Point Village Center, 318-8898.

The most varied selection of Dim Sum in Northern Virginia, in terms of variety, but not actually my favorite. Not fully consistent and now overpriced. And the new quarters are simply too huge, more suitable for a Chinese wedding, which is in fact what they are used for. By no means a bad restaurant, but I go to Mark’s Duck House for dim sum.

House of Mandarin, 165 S.E. Glyndon St., Vienna, 703-281-9600.

This old standby was a boring Chinese restaurant for eleven years. Now they have a Chinese menu and it is much improved. Ask for the Chinese menu and ignore the rest. I expect this place will continue to improve, I will keep my eye on it. Small and homey, a nice Vienna institution.

Lucky Three, 5900 Leesburg Pike, Baileys Crossroads, 998-8888, formerly Fortune, then Maxim, now renamed but has it ever changed?

Above average, but it is too close to my other favorites to get major air time. A big dim sum place.

Miu Kee, Rt. 50, just east of Annnandale Rd.

Real Chinese food, for Chinese. Family atmosphere, homey, comfortable. I like the soy chicken on rice, and the pork on chowfoon, very soggy but yummy. Not everything here is great, but none of it is bad, and the wise orderer can make a great meal. Cheaper than most, too.

Paul Kee, 11305-B Georgia Ave. Wheaton, 301.933.6886.

One of the best Cantonese places around, although you hardly ever hear of it. Excellent seafood. I like the scallops in pepper sauce, among other dishes. There are also the casseroles, and make sure you get some greens to round out the combination.

Hollywood East on the Boulevard, 2621 University Blvd. Wheaton, 240-290-9988.

Right now this is the best dim sum place around. They don’t just churn out the usual stuff, they are consistently interesting and make the dim sum with care. At times you might be frustrated by the delays, but that’s part of the signal of quality. First-rate greens too. I might add that they make stuff in batches, and you should stick around for about two hours, and save up space in your stomach, rather than filling up right away. Go slow, slow, slow, and make an afternoon of it.

Lo's, 3075 Nutley St., Pan Am Shopping Center, Fairfax, but very close to Vienna Metro, 280-2897.

Suburban Chinese through and through, and will not satisfy those looking for the real thing. But one of the best of its kind in the area. Will consistently satisfy. The Bird's Nest is especially good, as is the Lamb of Two Flavors. It's hard to go wrong here, as long as you don’t expect real Chinese food.

Jasmine Garden, 8106 Arlington Vlvd., Falls Church, 703-208-9989, actually on Gallows Rd. next to the 24-hour Safeway at Rt. 50.

I know what you’re thinking. “I’ve discovered so many wonderful new Chinese places in the last few years I don’t need another one.” Well, you are wrong. This place looks too yuppy and draws a business crowd for lunch. But many of the dishes on their Chinese menu – which you must ask for separately – are quite good. Get the chicken with three peppers, and then experiment on the Chinese menu. Their non-special dishes are above average, too. The menu has some Thai and Japanese items as well. Plus they have a piano, with occasional performances of, get this, operatic arias.

Eat First, 609 H St., NW, 202-289-1703, usually open.

One of Chinatown’s best, but you need to know what you are doing when ordering. Certainly above average, good enough to really enjoy, but for me not up to suburban Chinese.

Taipei-Tokyo Cafe, Rockville Pike, Rockville, 301-881-8388, I’ve lost track of all their branches, which seem ridiculously close together.

Noodles and soups abound. You order, and they bring the food to your table. Not haute cuisine, but very tasty. The accompanying Japanese place, under separate ownership, is also worthwhile. Both are cheap, and both are recommended. That being said, they are not keeping up with the upgrading of all the new competition.

Sichuan Village, 14005 Lee Jackson Highway (Rt.50), just east of Rt.28, Chantilly, 703-631-5888, same strip mall as Il Mee.

This place is from the titans that brought you the old Formosa Café in Crystal City. The new place is much more Szechuan, although they have added many heinous dishes and a heinous buffet for some of their heinous customers. Ignore those downsides. The real Chinese food here is superb. Get the Ants on a Stick, Pork Beijing Style, Tofu and Fish Fillet inVery Hot Sauce, Chengdu Kung Pao Chicken, Braised Beef with Brown Sauce, Tea Smoked Duck, Steamed Pork Bun Han Style, and Dumplings Zhong’s Style. And that is just a start.

A&J Restaurant, 4316 Markham St., Annandale, 813-8181, just east of Beltway, or 1319 Rockville Pike, 301-251-7878.

Joe’s Noodle House, 1488-C Rockville Pike, near Congressional Lane, Rockville, 301-881-5518.

Excellent Szechuan food. Many little items. You order and they bring it to your crowded table. Get as many different kinds of noodles as you can. The hot and sour fish is one of my favorite dishes here. An exciting place to visit, highly recommended.

N.B. There are many excellent Chinese places in Wheaton and Rockville, but I don’t know most of them. Let’s not forget the Chinese vegetarian places on Rockville Pike, one of them is Yuan Fu Chinese Vegetarian Restaurant, at 798 Rockville Pike, near Norbeck Rd., 301-762-5937.

Chinatown Express, 746 Sixth St., NW, 202-638-0424.

Maybe the best place in Chinatown right now. Make sure you order the noodles. Good soft-shelled crab. Excellent dumplings. Not as good as Joe’s Noodle House, but if you are stuck in DC you will enjoy this place. Small, and draws a crowd, so go early.

Vinh Kee, 3103-D Graham Rd., at Rt. 50, Falls Church, 703-645-0118.

Half of the way toward Vietnamese, actually. A good Asian seafood restaurant, though it does not rival my favorites, such as Seven Seas, in my affections. But it will be closer for many, and good enough to enjoy. Get the whole fish.

Hollywood East Café, 2312 Price Ave., Wheaton, also 2621 University Blvd., 301-942-8282. And their new second location is 2621 University Blvd., West, near Grandview Ave., Wheaton, 240-290-9988.

Everything here has real flavor, it is a real pleasure to eat their food. Doesn’t hit the peaks of the very best places, but stands far above the typical Chinese restaurant. Go for the daily specials. And the whole fish is never a mistake in a good Chinese restaurant, don’t worry about its high price, you are likely to die with a positive bequest in any case.

Tony Cheng’s Seafood Restaurant, H St., I believe between 6^th and 7^th, Chinatown, usually open.

It used to be you could have a good meal if you know how to order. Get the oyster casserole and the scallops in wine sauce, plus other house specials. But it’s been getting worse and worse, so mostly just don’t go.

Peking Village, 2962 Gallows Rd., between 50 and 29, Falls Church, 703-698-9220.

Two restaurants in one, a grisly fried Chinese buffet and a real Szechuan menu with absolutely no concessions to Western taste. The latter is worth trying. Not up to Joe’s Noodle House or China Star, but a truly authentic restaurant where you don’t expect to find such a place. They don’t hold back on the bodily organs and slime, etc., but you can get other things too. But keep in mind: the Chinese often eat for texture, not taste. Try the Dan Dan Noodles.

Far East Restaurant, 50550 Nicholson Lane, Rockville, 301-881-5552.

Quite good overall but the Kung Pao Chicken is the dish to get here, much more of a plum sauce dish than other kung paos.

Charlie Chiang’s, 660 South Pickett St., off van Dorn, not so far from the Metro, West Alexandria, 703-751-8888.

They have rabbit on the menu, and a number of other interesting-looking Szechuan dishes. Don’t get stuck with the American menu.

Oriental East, 1290 East-West Highway, at Colesville Rd., Silver Spring, 301-608-0030.

The best orange beef around. Overall a very good, above average Chinese restaurant. There are so many good Chinese places around now, you might be tempted not to try this one, but it is worth a visit.

China Garden, Rosslyn, 1100 Wilson Blvd., 703-525-5317.

Supposed to be very good Cantonese food, popular with Chinese. I believe the menu is different on the weekends.

Hunan Number One, Arlington, just off Wilson Blvd. in Clarendon, open to 1:30 a.m. every night, 703-528-1177.

A fraction of this place is authentic Cantonese, the other part is trying to appeal to boring American diners. Sooner or later the place will have to choose. The salt baked chicken is excellent and you won’t otherwise find that dish around. A reader recommends the clams in black bean sauce, beware the dim sum.

Mai’s Rest Inc., 6763 #9 Wilson Blvd., Eden Center, Falls Church, inside the mall, 703-237-2020, Tgfriday14@yahoo.com

The best crab place in the immediate area. Fresh. The proprietor likes to talk. Only crabs. Crabs, with ginger and scallions, tamarind sauce, plain, or salt and pepper. I like salt and pepper best. Recommended.

Cho cu Sai Gon, 6763 Wilson Blvd., Eden Center, #6D, inside the mall at the back, 703-538-2168.

An unknown and much underrated Cantonese restaurant. Good congee. Also get the salted and baked chicken. Fully authentic, try the noodles with ginger and scallion, I think this place is quite good. My favorite is the casserole with minced chicken and salt fish but there are many wonders here.

Chinese-Peruvian

Kam Po, 5884 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, 703-578-4017.

They have Chinese dishes and Peruvian dishes, with mutual influence running both ways. Visitors to Lima will be familiar with the concept, the place is run by Chinese Peruvians. An interesting novelty, and reasonably good, but it doesn’t beat trying either cuisine pure up.

Colombian

Brasa Roja, Main St., just east of downtown Fairfax, near Roberts Road, in the mall with Total Crafts. Another branch 8215 Georgia Ave., 301-495-0092.

Excellent rotisserie chicken and steaks, especially for Fairfax. The best yucca of the chicken places. Plus they serve a variety of good Peruvian dishes. Mexican food here is better than in many places. It only pretends to be Colombian, more pan-Latin than anything. They have cute waitresses, and lots of cops come as customers.

Los Arrieros, 7926 Georgia Ave., Silver Spring, but right at the DC border where the neighborhood turns dicey.

They have Mexican dishes also, I have not yet been. I’ll go when you tell me to, otherwise not. I am still waiting. Washingtonian recommends the seafood soup.

Crabs

Obrycki’s, Baltimore, 410-732-6399, obryckis.com. Somehow I lost the address. Not open outside of the crab season, though, which varies.

Yes, that’s right, Baltimore. This place blew me away, and I don’t even like crabs, or rather didn’t even like crabs until I was converted. A memorable experience, though I received one report of decline. Also recommended by readers are Faidley’s (Lexington market), and The Edgewater Inn (in Edgewater, near Annapolis)

Fairfax Crab House, Rt.50, just a bit east of University Drive.

Formerly Captain Jack’s on Rt.29, a longstanding Fairfax County institution that was forced out by gentrification of its neighborhood. How good is it? You’re asking the wrong person. The crab I love is Chili or Pepper Crab in Singapore.

Mai’s Rest Inc., 6763 #9 Wilson Blvd., Eden Center, Falls Church, inside the mall, 703-237-2020, Tgfriday14@yahoo.com

Cuban

Caribbean Grill, 5183 Lee Highway, Arlington, 241-8947, usually open.

Mostly Cuban, also they serve some Jamaican items. The grilled chicken is good, but I'm more inclined to order the beef (Ropa Vieja) or the Pork Fried Pieces (Masas de Puerco). But the key to having a good time here is to neglect the entrees and order as many side dishes as possible. Especially the beans, in their various manifestations. Table space here is limited, but don't let that discourage you. Cheap.

Cuban Corner Restaurant, 825 Hungerford Drive, near Ivy League Lane, Rockville, 301-279-0310, closed Sunday.

The best Cuban place around, as far as I can tell. Excellent pork and sides. The following is the rule of thumb on Cuban restaurants. The rice and beans are bound to be worthwhile. To have a great meal all you then need do is latch on to one other satisfactory dish. And here that is very easy to do. First-rate atmosphere, and I love the list of all the prominent Cubans on the wall, and the anti-Castro political propaganda. Definitely recommended, and very good for people-watching as well.

Cuba de Ayer, 15446 Old Columbia Pike, Burtonsville, 301-476-9622, closed Mondays.

A mom and pop, the Washington Post claims it is one of the best Cuban places around; it is a little out of the way for me.

Bohio’s Cuban Bistro, 1026 King St., Alexandria, 703-299-8886, closed Sunday lunch at 3 to 6 on most days.

Cuban restaurants around here don’t tend to vary much, and the rice and beans is usually better than the main chicken and beef dishes. This place I have yet to try.

Cubano’s, 1201 Fidler Lane, at Ramsey Ave., Silver Spring, 301-563-4020, 11-11 daily.

There is a flourish of new Cuban places in this area, though we do not yet have critical mass for any of them to be knockouts, as you might find in Florida or New Jersey.

Banana Café and Piano Bar, 500 Eighth St., SE, just off Pennsylvania Ave., 202-543-5906.

Cuba, Spanish, and Puerto Rican dishes. Not exactly a mom and pop, the place has a somewhat vile yuppie flavor. The Puerto Rican dishes consist of mashed plantains, in various forms, with garlic. The dishes vary greatly in quality. The best ones are good enough to enjoy (try the Puerto Rican ones, if only for novelty’s sake), but not good enough to stand comparison with the real thing. By all means go, especially if you live in the area (few good alternatives), but lower your expectations accordingly.

Yuca, 1800 M St., NW, 202-785-1177, closed Saturday lunch and Sunday.

Terrible hours, but again another new Cuban place. Has to be one of the better places in the neighborhood.

Deli

Chutzpah, 12214 Fairfax Towne Center, Fairfax, 703-385-8883, closed Sunday dinner.

No, this isn’t New York City, or even New Jersey, but this place is better than you think.

Celebrity Delly, Loehmann’s Plaza, Rt. 50, Falls Church.

Not as good as Chutzpah, but above average for this area.

Dominican

Manna, 8640 Flower Avenue, Takoma Park, 20912, 301-589-9390, usually open.

Go here for mofongos (see under Puerto Rico for an explanation), fried pork and chicken, cuban sandwiches, and cow feet soup. I haven't been here yet, but I have heard g